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Routes in The Sanford Wall

Big One, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fish-eyed Fool S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grey Matter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Junkyard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rollo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
You Big Dummy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Eddie Whittemore, 1992
Page Views: 1,420 total, 16/month
Shared By: Michael Underwood on Nov 8, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

A slightly overhanging route that can deliver a pump, Junkyard wanders up a series of ragged flakes until the handholds run thin around the fourth bolt, where even the shift of poise during clipping can send you plummeting down to the first bolt for an exhilarating 30' whipper.

Location

Sanford Wall; it's just left of Grey Matter, which follows the arete on the right side of the buttress.

Protection

5 bolts, shuts.

Photos

Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
WARNING: We were there yesterday and the hanger is missing from the 4th bolt. Feb 1, 2016
Austin Ray
  5.11a
Austin Ray  
  5.11a
I have to agree with Kate, I loved this route! I especially liked it more than the easier Fish Eyed Fool on the same wall that everyone seems to rave about.

Fairly easy, but pumpy climbing up to the high crux is what gives this the 11 grade. But like she said with 5 bolts now (and some experience falling from the 4th bolt) the falls are short and safe. Definitely hop on this if you are in the area! Jan 21, 2014
Kate Mittendorf
Nashville, TN
  5.11a
Kate Mittendorf   Nashville, TN
  5.11a
This doesn't get the love it deserves, in my opinion. There's now 5 bolts, if memory serves correctly. Easy climbing to the 2nd bolt, figure out a very interesting section to the 3rd bolt, and beware of a whipper if you fall whilst clipping! Starting that clip is the sustained climbing, through the fourth bolt somewhere higher on crimps, and then more small crimps and a redpoint crux to a good hold (and 5th bolt clip) and then it's easy to the anchors. Nov 14, 2013