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What's Best in Life?

5.12a, Trad, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Richard Cilley, Spring 2010
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear South > Highway 18 Crags > Castle Rock Area > Castle Rock Slab > Cracked Tower

Description

An overhanging crack with insecure hand jams to finger locks. The moves are both powerful and somewhat painful.

Location

The obvious overhanging crack in the middle of the tower. Located 15 feet right of Unas, Slayer of the Gods, a 5.11a sport route.

Protection

Top Rope. a lead would require finger to small hand sized cams.

A natural anchor can easily be built at the top, hand sized pieces. Access to the top via an easy scramble from the right side of the formation.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cracked Tower, left to right: Unas Slayer of Gods, What's Best in Life. Photo by C. Miller.
[Hide Photo] Cracked Tower, left to right: Unas Slayer of Gods, What's Best in Life. Photo by C. Miller.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben H
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I climbed this cleanly on TR earlier this year. I heard that someone may have snaked the FA a week earlier. A free lead of this route may warrant an R rating, because of the limited height, and a good possibility of decking onto the slab underneath.

Was listed as a 'project'. I am suggesting the name "What's Best in Life?", but also don't want to take credit for an FA if someone has beat me to it. Felt 12- Nov 8, 2010
dickcilley
[Hide Comment] I did it last spring.That would be the grade I'd give it. Jun 6, 2011