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Routes in Cracked Tower

Unas Slayer of the Gods S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
What's Best in Life? T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 51 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben H on Nov 8, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An overhanging crack with insecure hand jams to finger locks. The moves are both powerful and somewhat painful.

Location

The obvious overhanging crack in the middle of the tower. Located 15 feet right of Unas Slayer of the Gods, a 5.11a sport route.

Protection

Top Rope. a lead would require finger to small hand sized cams.

A natural anchor can easily be built at the top, hand sized pieces. Access to the top via an easy scramble from the right side of the formation.

Photos

I did it last spring.That would be the grade I'd give it. Jun 6, 2011
Ben H
 
Ben H  
 
I climbed this cleanly on TR earlier this year. I heard that someone may have snaked the FA a week earlier. A free lead of this route may warrant an R rating, because of the limited height, and a good possibility of decking onto the slab underneath.

Was listed as a 'project'. I am suggesting the name "What's Best in Life?", but also don't want to take credit for an FA if someone has beat me to it. Felt 12- Nov 8, 2010