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Routes in Devil's Slide

Close To The Top T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easier Than It Looks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Harder Than it Looks S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Knuckle Duster T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mark of the Beast S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk In The High Country S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: James Crump
Page Views: 5,748 total · 60/month
Shared By: Zach Wahrer on Nov 8, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

This route is a great multi-pitch traverse across the backside of Main Dome. Crosses several other popular routes, so you may have to wait or ask permission to cross other parties if its a busy day. This climb can definitely be a route finding challenge past P3 due to the sea of bolts on Main Dome.

P1-3 can be done as a standalone, topping out on several different climbs or rapping off of Easier Than It Looks anchors with a single 60m rope.

P1 (~30m): Climb the face using the arete formed by the right facing dihedral (4 bolts) to a set of anchors.

P2 (~30m): Traverse up and right across the top of the overlap (6 bolts) to a set of anchors.

P3 (~30m): Traverse across easy terrain to a grassy ledge (no bolts) with 2 sets of anchors (left is Easier Than It Looks, right is Mark Of The Beast).

P4: Continue traversing the upper shield using bolts on existing routes following a dike that angles up (guidebook says 3 bolts, 2 anchors).

P5: Angle up and right through a dish and a bulge (guidebook says 2 bolts).

Location

Starts on the far left side of Devil's Slide. Look for a large, arching right facing dihedral that is approximately 150' to the left of Easier Than It Looks. The climb starts on top of the dihedral, immediately to the left.

Protection

Bolts and 2 bolt anchors.

Photos

Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
We linked P2/3 with a 70m and made it to the first set of anchors on the Mark of the Beast ledge, which is far enough to climb pitch P4 w/o difficulty.

P4: this is the route finding pitch, here's my 2 cents, feel free to make other suggestions.

Continue straight right from the MOTB anchors past two somewhat closely spaced bolts (don't veer up right away to the high bolt). Continue traversing right while trending up for <20' to a third bolt. Keep traversing on the same trajectory to past a fourth bolt and the anchor should come into view.

This leaves a one-bolt fifth pitch to the top. Dec 8, 2014

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