Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Robert Warren, Steve Johnson 1988
Page Views: 3,064 total · 31/month
Shared By: jakobi on Nov 8, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route was put in the late 80's at 5.11 C1 and was the first ascent of Cogswell Tower. It's unclear whether a free ascent had yet been done, though my partner and I freed the aid sections; a tenuous section on the top of the second pitch and the offwidth roof on the third, at 5.11+ and 5.11 respectively. The route begins on the right side of the south face.
p1: Start in a cleft which tapers into a fist/hand crack and a right-facing dihedral, the pitch angles right through easier ground and ends at a good belay ledge with bolted anchors. 5.10
p2: Climb straight up from the belay following an incipient seam and faceholds into the crescent-shaped pod. the line arcs left through easier ground to a dihedral feature with a flake to it's right (the crux). Some groveling ends at another good ledge with bolted anchors. 5.11+.
p3: Follow the 6' crack into the slot and out the roof. Past the roof a short section of easier offwidth ends on the summit. 5.11
Descent: Double ropes (70m) gets you down in two raps.

Location

There are two options for accessing Cogswell tower and the scattered routes in this section of Hatch Wash, though we opted for the west approach which is the longer drive though enables a hike in rather than the shorter east approach which involves a long rappel-in-jug-out. Turn off Hwy. 191 on the Needles/Anticline Overlook Road, continue for 14.9 miles and take a right just after passing the Needles Overlook spur to the left. Follow the graded 2wd road 2.5 miles and take a left, shortly you'll cross a cattle guard and come to another fork; take the right. After .9 mile there will be a natural gas mine and another fork, stay to the right. 1.2 miles later is another fork, again stay right and in another .8 mile you'll be at the rim and a campsite which looks directly over the tower. An old cairn-marked cow trail drops into the canyon which is reached by walking the rim to the right for a hundred yards or so.

Protection

A standard desert rack, with 1 #5 and #6 Camalot or equivalent.
mtoensing
Boulder
mtoensing   Boulder
hey this route sounds great but can you give a more detailed route description? Nov 8, 2010
Matt, you're right, this is a great route, you sould get on it. I think it would be a good winter climb on a nice day. The route is due S facing and you could easily wait at your car until the sun hits you, make it down, climb it and out without ever loosing the sun. The hike it is one of the most casual gullies I've done in the desert. Simply hike to the south face and look for the shallow yet wide short chimney which turns into a R facing corner. From there it is relativey straight forward, follow cracks up. Its been years, but I am pretty sure we did it free in 2 pitches.

The crux was finding the tower, but Jakobi did an excellent job describing the drive in.

Good luck, and let me know if you need more beta. Matt Nov 6, 2011
Marcus garcia
Durango, Co.
Marcus garcia   Durango, Co.
This is a great route,
Ryan Ray and I climbed a corner around from the route and I feel it is a first ascent as we had to do a little cleaning. It climbs 2 great pitches at 5.10 and 5.11+(little spicy at the top before the anchor). We installed an anchor on a ledge. Later Miles Newby and I came back and did anothe ascent linking the route we call The Forrester in to the second crux of the Raven. It turned out to be one of the best routes I have climbed.
marcus garcia Nov 17, 2011
This has got to be it, right? 38.296247, -109.482610 (paste into Google Maps) Aug 29, 2016
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
 
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
 
Awesome climb, all pitches were good with standout climbing on pitches two & three, WILD steep crux! Fat rack would be: Camalots 2X .3-.75, 3X 1-#3. 2X #4 & 5. Long 60m+ rappel or do two. Nov 7, 2018