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Routes in B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyon)

Innominate T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Angle of Repose T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bonawaim T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cry Wolf T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great North Ridge, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hot Buttered Popcorn with Salt T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Laughing Lizard, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Naked Truth., The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ranting Ravens. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raucous Wren., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebus 5.10 T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rosco's Delight T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Scorpion Slab T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Seaside Stroll T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sidewinder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Super Crack of the Reef T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wandering Poet T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Windstorm Grove T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Lance Bateman Paul Ross.17th Oct 2010
Page Views: 2,217 total, 26/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Nov 8, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route takes a line up one of the most impressive pieces of rock in the Swell. All the pitches give sustained difficulty with excellent protection. A perfect sandstone introduction for sport climbers who climb to this grade or above. All pro bolts were placed on lead from natural stances.
On November 6th 2010 Bateman and Ross returned and Bateman reclimbed all the pitches without a fall. The route is left of another difficult Bateman /Folsom climb Wandering Poet.
P1)Starts about 100'left of The Wandering Poet by a light gray 8'high slab of rock. Climb past 16 bolts to a hanging belay and double anchors. A superb sustained pitch. 180' 5.12a
P2)Move left and climb over a small bulge and follow pro bolts up the black rock trending right to hanging belay and double anchors.80'5.11a
P3)Follow a slightly rising bolted traverse left to a hanging belay below the open groove.80'5.11a.
P4)Follow the crack under the overhang to enter the groove ,some cam placements plus bolts on this pitch. Up the groove to hanging belay and double anchors.80' 5.11a.
P5)Climb left to another difficlt groove/crack fault that leads steeply over the headwall, then an easier 20' slab that leads to double anchors ...the summit and fine views across the desert.80'5.11+.

Descent. A single rope rap from the top anchors to the belay at the start of P5,from here a long two rope rap to the belay at the top of the first pitch ,then one two rope rap from here to the ground.

Location

The Climb is located in the Little Spotted Wolf Canyon .Drive 2 miles up a good dirt road from the I.70 interstate to a pull off and camping place/trail head on the right... just before a wash. From here walk towards the obvious canyon mouth ,walk through the canyon to the massive steep wall on the right, scramble up the talus for about 300' to the small 6' light gray slab of rock below the climb.The route starts about 100' left of another difficult Bateman/Folsom route Wandering Poet.See topo photo.

Protection

At least 16 quick draws, one each of cams from 1" to 4" ,slings,medium stopper, two 60m ropes for rappels.

Brick, If your interested in this route I could recommend some others
That might be a better intro to the harder climbing on the reef. There
are a few good ones not listed on MP.

Innominate has some very thin tenuous climbing on the first pitch, and the higher pitches have less than stellar rock making the whole thing
a bit more of a trial than doing a few 12a sport pitches. Although,
if your into that sort of thing it is a fairly steep wild line. Mar 8, 2011
Ben Ricketts
Salt Lake City, UT
Ben Ricketts   Salt Lake City, UT
This route sounds awesome. Nice work guys. I will have to get down and try this one. Shouldn't this be posted in the Little Spotted Wolf canyon section? Mar 5, 2011
apross  
I would guess at least 5 hours and yes the place is great. Nov 9, 2010
How much sun does this get in Dec? This whole area looks amazing. Nice work guys. Ben once told me Wandering Poet is a fantastic line. Sounds like this one might be too. Nov 8, 2010