Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Lance Bateman Paul Ross.17th Oct 2010|
|Page Views:||2,765 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||USBRIT Ross on Nov 8, 2010|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
On November 6th 2010 Bateman and Ross returned and Bateman reclimbed all the pitches without a fall. The route is left of another difficult Bateman /Folsom climb Wandering Poet.
P1)Starts about 100'left of The Wandering Poet by a light gray 8'high slab of rock. Climb past 16 bolts to a hanging belay and double anchors. A superb sustained pitch. 180' 5.12a
P2)Move left and climb over a small bulge and follow pro bolts up the black rock trending right to hanging belay and double anchors.80'5.11a
P3)Follow a slightly rising bolted traverse left to a hanging belay below the open groove.80'5.11a.
P4)Follow the crack under the overhang to enter the groove ,some cam placements plus bolts on this pitch. Up the groove to hanging belay and double anchors.80' 5.11a.
P5)Climb left to another difficlt groove/crack fault that leads steeply over the headwall, then an easier 20' slab that leads to double anchors ...the summit and fine views across the desert.80'5.11+.
Descent. A single rope rap from the top anchors to the belay at the start of P5,from here a long two rope rap to the belay at the top of the first pitch ,then one two rope rap from here to the ground.