Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Jim Matthews/Mike Roy July 2009
Page Views: 173 total · 2/month
Shared By: JimM on Nov 6, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Finger crack with some face climbing, 140 feet.

Location

The route is the third crack to the west of Ed's Jam. Approach from the ramp to the west (class 3) or from the ground below Ed's Jam. You can rap the route with two ropes (140 to the ledge, 180 feet to the ground) or top out after the second reaches the anchor. Take care to avoid the rubble above if topping out. You can then rap with a single rope in the Bend West area or walk off in either direction.

Protection

single set of nuts, double set of cams up to .75 camalot and 1 each #1, #2 camalot size. Two anchor bolts at top of route.

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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
Jim, I get really confused with the cracks, anchors, columns at Tieton. Is this the next crack right of Satori, 10b through roof? It has red slings on hangers. We did the one next right- Riptide? very sketchy gear at the bottom, with 10a moves and small roof pull on juggy hold near top, then small technical crack. anchor has cordellete. Jul 27, 2015
JimM
  5.10a
JimM  
  5.10a
Yes, you are correct Geoff. Blue Wind is the crack immediately right (climbers right) of Satori, and you correctly described Riptide. The gear is a little tricky at the start of Riptide but you get a few good pieces before the crux. It probably is 10a. Other people have said that it feels more like 10a than the 5.9 grade I gave it. Aug 21, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
Very spicy hot sauce start on this, I thought Riptide was hard to protect, this is a little more perplexing. I tried to stay directly below the crack that goes to the anchor with red sling. I found 2 good placements- #1 or #2 Camelot then rock up on ledgy foot with no hands gently reach over to crack on the left- good .75 blind placement. Follow this finger crack till horizontal, then crack on right is mostly 5.9- really fun, some 10a near top. I would go with double cams to #2, large or double set of nuts would work well too.
I think the red sling has been there maybe since 1st ascent, could use some chain. Sep 8, 2015