Type: Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches
FA: Thomas Kelly, Mark Stroud, Sam Stevenson, John Tainio
Page Views: 1,653 total · 14/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Nov 6, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

Description

Another Cereal Wall classic! Spectacular face and slab climbing up a golden brown wall. Though it has a reputation for loose/fragile rock, don't let this scare you away. Deliberate climbing will liberate you.

P1- Climb the corner to a bulge/roof. Pull the roof and belay at a pine tree or continue up the corner to a gear belay atop a flake. 80-90 ft; 5.8

P2- Move right and climb up loose flakes to a roof with a pin(good tcu out right of the pin about 3 1/2 ft). Climb straight up and angling slightly left passing 3 bolts. At the third bolt move left to a ledge then weave your way up and right following the best holds to a double bolt belay. 100 ft; 5.10

P3- Step right of the belay and climb straight up to a bolt. Climb straight up then angle up and left about 5 feet following the gear and crimps. Continue up and right to a bolt. Move right to a lower angled slabby face. Climb up and right on sparse gear and past one runout section to a nice ledge. Slab up and right to a bolt. Climb up and belay at a large juniper tree. Spectacular!!! 130 ft; 5.11b (5.9r)

To get off you have 3 options.

1- Rap off the juniper tree and hit the belays for one of the other routes on the cereal wall. Not reccommended.

2- Scramble up and left to the overlook. When you reach the summit climb down and rap off of the closest pine tree(about 60 ft) down to the Wild Hickory Nut anchors. Continue down Wild Hickory Nuts. This is my favored option as it allows one to climb or top rope Wild Hickory Nuts.

3- Move up and right along the grassy tree ledge. Rap off of any large trees down to a double bolt anchor. This anchor can be seen by looking down and right once up and behind the cedar tree. Rap this down to another double bolt anchor beneath the headwall. Rap to ground.

Location

Starts right of Instant Surreal about 40 ft at a low angle corner.

Protection

double tcu's to orange(triple blue and yellow helpful), camalots to blue(.3 and .4 very useful), small to medium nuts, tricams, many long runners, medium draws

Note-The FA bolts on this climb were replaced in Jan 2011.

Photos