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Mind Games

5.10a, Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 18 votes
FA: May 28 1987, Bob McGown & Tim Olson
Oregon > Portland & The… > Rocky Butte > f. Wizard Wall

Description

Mind Games is one of the most unique routes at Rocky Butte. A good introduction to the world of off-width climbing. I think more people would climb it if it were widely known how to access the area. Start by gaining the belay ledge, either by rappelling in or climbing up 20' from the forest floor. Ascend an easy, blocky start up to the chimney. Stem and grunt up the large flaring chimney before making a tricky exit move below the anchor.

Location

If approaching from above, walk along the cliff-top trail Northwest from the Video Bluff. Look for a single black hanger on top of a rock at the cliff's edge (see photo). This is the access area for Mind Games and Phylynx. Tie off to the tree and rappel over the edge to a fixed anchor at the top of the route. 

Accessing Mind Games from the base of the wall is possible by climbing a short, roughly 20' section of easy 5th class rock and gaining the belay ledge with a belay anchor.

Protection

A full rack up to 6 inches. Protection is plentiful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mind Games
[Hide Photo] Mind Games
Top access for Mind Games.
[Hide Photo] Top access for Mind Games.
Mind Games fits about half your body through the start, but flares out, which requires variating your tactics to get to the anchors
[Hide Photo] Mind Games fits about half your body through the start, but flares out, which requires variating your tactics to get to the anchors
Mind Games anchor.
[Hide Photo] Mind Games anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C h a d
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Mind Games was recently cleaned and pruned. Now's the time to get on it! Nov 6, 2010
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] If you like off width and flaring off width you'll like this route. Very interesting and very physical near the top. Jun 2, 2014
danma
Portland, Oregon
[Hide Comment] This would be a sustained endurance climb if it wasn't for the beefy ledge to rest on. The first part can be some what challenging, but once you get to the crack/chimney it gets much harder, which surprised me that it is rated at 5.10a. The route has a lot of variety and is my favorite climb amongst the trash, broken bottles, and used condoms. Oct 19, 2014
John Brown
vancouver
 
[Hide Comment] this is a stout route that is hard all the way up imo - just enough though and sustained 10a Aug 3, 2019
D Fletcher
Portland, OR
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Anchors updated to 1/2" inch stainless steel thanks to the ASCA. Mussy hooks included. Backup bolt is available but you still should backup on the tree to get there Apr 3, 2022