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Routes in Center Inset

Beaching Whales S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Leg Interruption S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hot Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Motivate S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reach for the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Pete Aldwinckle
Page Views: 40 total, 0/month
Shared By: ClimbFit on Nov 5, 2010
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Description

This route is the set of bolts on the far left side of the crag. The route curves to the right with a set or rappel chains at the top.

If this route has a crux then it would be the traverse up and to the right between the last bolt and the bolted rappel chains. From the last bolt to the abseil chains looks rather tricky but it is much easier than it looks.

The guide book rates this route at an F5 or 5.9. After climbing this route a few times I would rate it at a 5.7, the hardest portion being what I consider the crux.

I took two "new" climbers to this route, who had never climbed sport (except for once in a climbing gym) and climbed top rope a bunch. After leading the route they had no problems leading themselves. This is a great and fun warm up route for experienced climbers. It is also an even better starter route for beginner climbers.

Location

The route is the last set of bolts on the left side of the crag.

Protection

This is a bolted sport route. The bolts are about 3 meters apart with anchors at the top. This route takes seven quickdraws.

Photos

Sahar
  5.7
Sahar  
  5.7
This route was my first route for Leading and my first outdoor climb! What I liked beside Outdoor is GREAT!: It was interesting to get a taste of how it feels after putting the first quickdraw until you get to the next one. If it would be toprope climb it would have been a very easy climb therefore for a first lead it is great 'coz I learned to be more confident and get used to the thought that in case of slipping I'd fall a "bit more" than with toprope. The route is not that exhausting. no overhang... at the end when you have to move to the right. that's tricky though! It took me a while to reach the last part. But it was challenging. I liked it alot! Nov 25, 2010