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Routes in Femme Fatale Area

Brigid O'Shaunessy V0 4
Conch, The V8 7B
Dusty V1+ 5
Egret Arete V10 7C+ R
Enter Sandman V10-11 8A
High Hat V4-5 6B+
Irene Jansen V5 6C R
Kathy Moffat V3- 6A PG13
La Directa V6 7A
Lord of the Flies V1 5 R
Martini Madness V0 4
Phyllis Diedrickson V2 5+
Prohibition Traverse V7 7A+
Shaken, Like A Tornado V6-7 7A+
Shaken, Not Stirred V3 6A
Supercrack, The V7 7A+
Swingin singles V2 5+
There's Friendlier Places to Drink V0+ 4+
Two pinches to glory V2-3 5+
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 987 total · 10/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Nov 5, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Like everything else around here, this problem has gone through several "editions" due to hold-breakage. What hasn't changed is the long, body-tension intensive moves, and the decidedly grovelly top-out. Used to be V6, but a critical crimp broke, and the moves feel a bit more desperate.

Location

Femme Fatale Zone. Sit Start the cave, go straight up and over the bulge.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V6-7
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  V6-7
This route went from V6 to V6+ to V6++. Now I think it's V7 (or harder).

More breakage. What are you gonna do?

A super-fun grovel.

ANDY Jan 23, 2011
Yeah, this one's bitchin, but hmmm, I disagree about a rating change. The bottom actually feels easier than it used to and the top high-step-to-pocket-then-grovel was always the 'business' anyway. I still say V6. It ain't as hard as Mister Witty or King Dinosaur. Mar 11, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V6-7
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  V6-7
Just to perpetuate climbing esoterica: the "crimp" on the top sloping dish broke. As Bob says, the upper moves were always the business, but when I topped this thing out today I wanted to vomit. Dec 27, 2011

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