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Routes in Femme Fatale Area

Brigid O'Shaunessy V0 4
Conch, The V8 7B
Dusty V1+ 5
Egret Arete V10 7C+ R
Enter Sandman V10-11 8A
High Hat V5- 6C
Irene Jansen V5 6C R
Kathy Moffat V3 6A PG13
La Directa V6 7A
Lord of the Flies V1 5 R
Martini Madness V0 4
Phyllis Diedrickson V2 5+
Prohibition Traverse V7 7A+
Shaken, Like A Tornado V6-7 7A+
Shaken, Not Stirred V3 6A
Supercrack, The V7 7A+
Swingin singles V2 5+
There's Friendlier Places to Drink V0+ 4+
Two pinches to glory V2-3 5+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 918 total, 11/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Nov 5, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Like everything else around here, this problem has gone through several "editions" due to hold-breakage. What hasn't changed is the long, body-tension intensive moves, and the decidedly grovelly top-out. Used to be V6, but a critical crimp broke, and the moves feel a bit more desperate.

Location

Femme Fatale Zone. Sit Start the cave, go straight up and over the bulge.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Just to perpetuate climbing esoterica: the "crimp" on the top sloping dish broke. As Bob says, the upper moves were always the business, but when I topped this thing out today I wanted to vomit. Dec 27, 2011
Yeah, this one's bitchin, but hmmm, I disagree about a rating change. The bottom actually feels easier than it used to and the top high-step-to-pocket-then-grovel was always the 'business' anyway. I still say V6. It ain't as hard as Mister Witty or King Dinosaur. Mar 11, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
This route went from V6 to V6+ to V6++. Now I think it's V7 (or harder).

More breakage. What are you gonna do?

A super-fun grovel.

ANDY Jan 23, 2011