Via Normale
5.6,
Trad, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.6 from 11
votes
FA: Menardi, Majoni and Wyatt 1901
International
> Europe
> Italy
> Dolomites
> Cinque Torri Group
> Torre Inglese
Description
A great line, with good position and nifty, exposed moves up high, Via Normale on the Torre Inglese is a short, not-to-be-missed classic.
Begin by climbing the steep chimney at the junction between the east and inboard south face of the tower. Climb to the top of the chimney weakness to a belay atop where the blocky formation rolls over to a flat stance. 5.6 30m.
Traverse on thin but amazing holds up and across the steep, exposed face to the left and up to the Southeast corner of the tower. Climb up and then, near the top, step to the right to a belay anchor. 5.6 25m
Location
Route is located on the south east aspect of the formation.
Start is at the obvious chimney in the main corner crack on the left side of the south facing blocky formation which leans against the east face, interrupting what would be a smooth east face.
There are also several options to start to the right to begin this climb. The original route apparently climbed the weakness/crack system to the right between the main formation and the shorter tower to the northeast.
Descent: traverse from the first belay, staying on the east side of the tower, across exposed terrain to a set of rappel anchors to the north. A 50m rappel reaches the ground. There is also a mid anchor below which would support a 30m (?) rappel to the ground if a single 60m rope is used.
Protection
The route is mostly fixed.
Supplemental protection in the form of a few nuts and small to medium sized cams would be prudent for folks not solid on the grade.
[Hide Photo] Telephoto profile: final pitch of Via Normale, Torre Inglese.
[Hide Photo] First pitch of Via Normale on Torre Inglese in the Cinque Torri
[Hide Photo] Unknown group of climbers on Torre Inglesi, from Torre Quarta Bassa summit.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the top...
[Hide Photo] Approximate route sketch, via Normale on Torre Inglesi. Taken from summit of Torre Quarta Bassa.
[Hide Photo] A solitary climber stands at the base of the chimney/corner of the first pitch, while others embark on pitch two for the summit.
[Hide Photo] Climbers on Torre Inglese, seen from Torre Lusy; nearer, another group atop Torre Quarta Alta.
[Hide Photo] Rappel anchor at the end of the traverse to the north on Torre Inglese
[Hide Photo] Coming up the exposed second pitch of Via Normale on Torre Inglese
Salt Lake City, UT
Descent beta: after you hit the summit, note that if you traverse to the right, there are rap rings. We did it in 2 raps with a 70m rope. Oct 4, 2013
Billings, MT
Perchtoldsdorf, AT