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The Old Pro Skill

5.12d, Sport,  Avg: 3.1 from 7 votes
FA: Phil Requist
California > Central Coast > Hwy 166/Silly Rock > Owl Tor

Description

Long, powerful lock-offs at bottom. Juggy midsection. Cruxy last moves with a scary clip to boot.

Location

Just left of Chips Ahoy.

Protection

Fixed draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Becca throwing the big move off the undercling at the top (photo by Lincoln)
[Hide Photo] Becca throwing the big move off the undercling at the top (photo by Lincoln)
Aaron Stireman showing some old pro skill on his seventh onsight.
[Hide Photo] Aaron Stireman showing some old pro skill on his seventh onsight.
Andy about to send (with style).
[Hide Photo] Andy about to send (with style).
Bolt 2
[Hide Photo] Bolt 2
Phil. Crushing.
[Hide Photo] Phil. Crushing.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Okay, so I kind of take back what I said: the last clip isn't actually SCARY. It's slightly awkward, but even if you blow it with gobs of slack out, your fall will be pleasant, albeit big.

This route evinces the concept of "redpoint-heartbreak".

So fun. Mar 24, 2013
Bob Banks
 
[Hide Comment] To further already shattered egos out there, Pro Skill was rated 12c for many years. I always called it 12c/13b. May 22, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] My current approach to this route includes skipping the last clip altogether. That way I can focus on just the climbing. A few other guys do this, too. I think it was the only way I could redpoint, since you HAVE to be fresh on the undercling move, and fuddling with the clip wastes precious juice. Oct 6, 2013
Carlos Garcia
Truckee, CA
[Hide Comment] There is a semi-popular link-up - No Skill. Climb most of Old Pro Skill cut over to the Chips outro jugs. Skips the cruxes of both routes. 12b/c? Oct 21, 2014
steve edwards
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] Sounds like somebody's using the old pro skill on him and my man's fallin' for it. Nov 4, 2014