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Routes in Rancher Rock

Aqua Sucre T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Arrested Development S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mad Knowledge of Self S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rancher Avoidance Procedure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sometimes a Great Notion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
When the Saucers Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: B Branscomb E DeLong M Vogel 2010
Page Views: 90 total, 1/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Nov 2, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Sticky situation Details

Description

A wild little climb through some steep stone via stemming, jams and a wicked undercling till you pop to a big jug. Yard up on to this honker, place pro in the flake and lieback a few airy, thin moves into much easier ground. Cool movement: do it.

I should add that this route was originally Vogel's idea. Good climber, and imaginative.

Location

This is on the far right side of the alcove. Start up a dirty but easy gully. You may want a 3 or 4 camalot here to protect the little bulge. Go up to the overhangs. Proceed to work up and left via stemming and jams to an undercling flake, the crux. Pop for a big jug at the end of this. Proceed up the flake above and then low angle face to the anchor. Rappel the route (30m).

Protection

bolts, #1 TCU, small wires, 0.4/0.5/0.75/1.0 Camalots.

Photos

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Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Its over pretty quick but stellar while it lasts! Sep 6, 2016