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Edge of Might

5.11b, Sport,  Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
FA: August 1987, Mike Pajunas, Gary Rall
Oregon > Portland & The… > Rocky Butte > d. Video Bluff

Description

This is the route just to the right of Robotics that starts on the slab. Clip the first two bolts then angle slightly right to the arête which is used repeatedly for slapping. Several good rests allow for recovery and contemplation.

Edge of Might is one of the least physical 5.11's you will encounter around Portland. Balance and good footwork are key to making progress. EoM is likely the best route on the Video Bluff. Unfortunately, water seeps down this climb, making non-summer ascents hard to come by.

Location

Starts just to the right of Robotics.

Protection

Fully bolted with an old chain anchor at the top.

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Edge of Might
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Vince Schreck
Portland, OR
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] While I haven't done every route at Rocky Butte, this one ranks WAY up there for me. I think the grade is solid. I totally agree with everything in the description. This climb will wear you out if it's on the upper end of your difficulty range. Lots of tension climbing with pretty footwork. There is a lower crux, which is far easier if you're tall enough to reach an awesome horizontal ledge. If you can't reach that ledge (mid-climb), you're going to probably have to heel hook the right arete. The upper crux is the last couple of moves, which can totally ruin your on-sight! Be careful!

Also, it is possible to toprope the climb, but tricky! The anchor chains are rusty and so are the bolts. I usually access this using a static safety line that I've secured up on the main trail using a tree. Then, I step across from the "Live Wire" anchors very carefully. A safety line with a prusik (or other) is absolutely necessary here. I put a Quad anchor on the Edge of Might anchors and back it up with some cord over to the adjacent anchors. It's probably overkill, but I feel safer that way. May 29, 2019
John Brown
vancouver
 
[Hide Comment] footwork on arete is pretty sweet- bolts are spaced well - fantastic climb Oct 6, 2019
D Fletcher
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Anchors updated to 1/2" inch stainless steel thanks to the ASCA Dec 12, 2021