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Routes in 5.2 - Devils Doorway

Bloody Finger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doorway Chimney T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Impossible Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romper T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
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Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,025 total · 11/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Nov 1, 2010
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

"A fall from this knife-edged crack can be messy. This climb follows a thin crack near the northwest edge of the south pillar of the Doorway. Begin on a bench 6 ft. above the ground." (1970 Climbers and Hikers Guide)

Location

On the west side of the Doorway's south pillar. You can mount the initial ledge either from the south or the west.

Protection

A couple of half inch nuts or cams.

Photos

Josh Olson
Durango, CO
 
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
 
So short, so sharp, worth it once. Impossible Crack is way better. Jul 5, 2013
Gokul
Madison, WIsconsin
 
Gokul   Madison, WIsconsin  
 
There's a nice direct (V2) start on the face and arete below the crack, to gain the ledge from where you take the crack to the top. Apr 20, 2014

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