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Routes in Brokeback Tower

Two Dudes with Ball Nuts. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ X
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Type: Trad, Aid, 130 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 850 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Oct 30, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Closed. Details

Description

The route starts on the north side of the tower.
Although this tower is climbed in one pitch, that pitch is divided into two sections.

Section 1: Free climb on rotten rock to a ledge about 30' up. 5.8X
Section 2: Traverse on a foot rail to a crack with a pin on the east side of the tower. Aid up on thin cracks past a bolt to a mantel on rotten rock. 5.7, C2+

Two bolt anchor is on the base of the summit block. Do an unprotected mantel to the proper summit.

Location

Hike to the saddle between Brokeback and the larger tower to the north. The route starts on the north side of Brokeback tower.

Protection

Standard clean rack, ball nutz, Half ropes?

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