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Routes in Main Wall - West End

Bodisattva S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Climbign 101 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crazy Like a Fox S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Boys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Its Only Money S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pull or Eject S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shotgun Wedding S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Top Gun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 280 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rob Hagler and Mike Tompson, September 2002
Page Views: 2,043 total, 24/month
Shared By: Jeff J on Oct 30, 2010
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

P1: (5.4)Start on a flat sand bar by the creek bed. 90' to a large ledge with chains.

P:2(5.4) Follow the line of least resistance past 3 or 4 bolts to a chains on a ledge. 90'

P3: (5.7) follow up past a chossy ledge to the steeping wall to good holds. It started to get fun from here.

P4:(5.8)in 2004 Dan Clark joined the FAs to add the upper two pitches, there a bit chosey but are getting better.

P5: (5.9) just a bit harder than the 5.8 and still in the choss.

Location

Follow the creek right along the cliff, when you get to the end look up to see the bolts.

Protection

Protection: quick draws and personal anchor of you choice.
All fixed anchors
Christian Spencer
Bellingham, Wa
 
Christian Spencer   Bellingham, Wa
 
Fun place to get some good exposure. Great view of the canyon and people hiking or hunting will wave at you. Did it in gusts up to 55-60mph which made the 5.8 a really fun climb. Check the weather before you go because it can get pretty windy in the canyon. Tons of choss so bring your helmet!! Sometimes it's nice to get rid of rocks on the ledges where you belay from when there is no one underneath you so your belayer doesn't get a brick to the head. Went in October with a party of 4 but only 2 of us made it to the top of the 4th pitch (5.8)

Climbing is pretty great and the view makes it worth it. Also fun to bivy on top of the second pitch for a starlit night. Just clear choss above you if you're paranoid... Apr 14, 2017
Nate George
Seattle, WA
 
Nate George   Seattle, WA
 
We stayed in the nearby town of Choteau, a scenic 40 minute drive from Blackleaf Canyon that is navigable by passenger car. On our first day the wind was calm, but it was near freezing (last week of October). The approach is a super easy 5-10 minute walk, but allocate ample time to find the first bolt. White spots on the limestone cliffs make the bolts nearly invisible. After deciding to bail at the top of the 3rd pitch (we got started too late) we went back to the hotel. The next day, we arrived at sunrise and enjoyed watching the light move across the surrounding peaks and cliffs as we made our way to the bottom of the first pitch. Conditions the second day were very different. While there was little cloud cover and it was about 10 degrees warmer, winds were ~40 mph sustained with gusts up to 60 mph that rapidly and unpredictably changed direction. This slowed our ascent significantly, allowing the stronger 2 of 4 in our group to finish the 4th pitch, then promptly beginning a miserable, slow descent due to the wind tangling our ropes. If you don't bring the right gear, your ascent could be cold or downright dangerous. The route isn't super great but like Joe said, the view is incredible. It feels alpine like when you get up on the cliff. Good luck finding the first bolt.

My Gear:
-Safety glasses- if your eyes are sensitive like mine, the cold wind could make seeing difficult even without the flying mini-choss

-HELMET!- the amount of choss is ridiculous. there were a few bowling ball sized rocks in addition to the never-ending choss on the belay/rappel ledges, so be careful when you reach the top, are belaying, rappelling, or pulling ropes.

-Pants- I wish I had worn long underwear. wear abrasion-resistant clothes (I ripped my Patagonia down jacket)

-top- I wore a synth-down under a military surplus BDU coat. it protected me well from the razor-sharp rock

-balaclava- the wind was brutal

-camera- Blackleaf is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been Nov 9, 2016
Joe Petroske
North Bend, WA
 
Joe Petroske   North Bend, WA
 
Lots of loose rock near the anchors, make sure to bring a helmet. Fossils were visible on the third pitch. There is a short walk on the ledges between the first 4 pitches that make this take a little bit longer to climb. Climbing is just OK, but the view on the climb makes up for it.

When I went up, there were extremely strong winds that made the easy climbing on this more fun. Oct 31, 2016