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Lower Weeping Wall

WI4-5, Ice, 550 ft (167 m), 3 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.8 from 77 votes
FA: unknown
International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Icefields Parkway > Weeping Wall Area

Description

Nearly as wide as it is tall, the Lower Weeping Wall is the best known climb in Canada. Less than 10 minutes from the road and virtually no avalanche hazard make this a destination for all ice climbers.

Although you can climb about anywhere you please on the wall, there are 3 somewhat independent lines.

The Left-Hand (II WI4) is the easiest and most popular, with the steep ice on the 2nd pitch being the crux.

The Central Pillar (III WI5+) climbs up either side of the large cave (crux) found in the very middle of the wall.

The Right-Hand (III WI5) climbs up to a long, sustained crux second pitch, followed by a short easier pitch to the trees. You may be able to use a bolt-belay on a small ledge to the right after the first pitch.

The Weeping Wall faces mostly south, so ice conditions can change rapidly in the sun, particularly later in the season.

Location

The Weeping Wall is 17.5 miles north of the David Thompson Highway, park at the plowed pull-out.

Several options exist for the descent. There are rock stations leading down the Sniveling Gully route on the left side of the wall, and there is an established rappel route down the rock wall to the right of the Right-Hand route. Or, you can rappel your route.

Protection

Ice screws for pro. Bring cord for v-thread belays and rappel anchors. Trees at the top of the wall are used for belay and rappel anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

P1 on the left
[Hide Photo] P1 on the left
Weeping Wall from Jasper Highway. November '12.
[Hide Photo] Weeping Wall from Jasper Highway. November '12.
Weeping Wall from the road, February '06.
[Hide Photo] Weeping Wall from the road, February '06.
Lower wall
[Hide Photo] Lower wall
Dan taking off the second pitch
[Hide Photo] Dan taking off the second pitch
The Weeping Wall area
[Hide Photo] The Weeping Wall area
Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1
Molly Higgins after a good day on Weeping wall.
[Hide Photo] Molly Higgins after a good day on Weeping wall.
Top of Lower Falls looking toward Jasper
[Hide Photo] Top of Lower Falls looking toward Jasper
Road side craggin'.<br>
Southern exposure...Best time is early on, early off..
[Hide Photo] Road side craggin'. Southern exposure...Best time is early on, early off..

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

rhyang
San Jose, CA
  WI4-5
[Hide Comment] The right-hand rappel route starts at a stout tree with a chain around it; there are two more stations to the ground, and we made it with 60m half ropes. Jan 31, 2012
High Mountain Gear
Tacoma, WA
[Hide Comment] Climbed this a couple days ago, as a heads up the second anchor is garbage ~150 ft or so up in the lower angle bit. Ran it out to some v threads I was happy to find. Cool climbing, but there is some hollow ice and running water underneath the first 130 ft. Mar 4, 2018
T T
Washington
 
[Hide Comment] Let out a YAHOO! on the first pitch, and a Will Gadd appeared at the base. epic. Dec 7, 2024
Ellen S
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Sun hits around noon in March Mar 24, 2025