All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Geology Tour Road > Jerry's Quarry an… > Lost Pencil
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||Riverside Bunch, 1967, FFA: Jon Lonne & Dennis Johnson, January 1977|
|Page Views:||862 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||john durr on Oct 29, 2010|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionIndian Giver is a bold route up the southwest face of the beautiful Lost Pencil pillar. Thin, steep Joshua Tree face climbing that is very insecure. A fall getting to the second bolt could be disastrous.
Start near a shallow dihedral by reaching/jumping to a large face hold on the right arete of the corner. I think a hard mantle onto this hold is the true crux. More hard face up and right gains another big jug. A terrifying 5.10c mantle here to an obvious chossy jug and the second bolt. Head up and right to the arete and the third bolt on big features. Cross the arete on to easier runnout climbing and an awesome summit.
Considering the nature of the climbing, this is an impressive FFA for 1977!
LocationThe beautiful west face of the Lost Pencil. This route starts up on the pedestal. This route gets lots of sun from late in the morning on.
Approach via an easy 20 foot long chimney hidden by boulders on the west face or a short, sharp 5.8 hand crack about 20 feet to the left (north).
To descend, rappel all the way back down from the top to below the approach pitch west with a single 60 meter rope, best to use the route Number Two's anchor for this. Watch your rope ends.