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Routes in Lost Pencil

Indian Giver T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Jailbird S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Shoes For Sunny S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Number Two (aka the Weasel Boys Arete) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sexy Bolt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Riverside Bunch, 1967, FFA: Jon Lonne & Dennis Johnson, January 1977
Page Views: 862 total · 10/month
Shared By: john durr on Oct 29, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Indian Giver is a bold route up the southwest face of the beautiful Lost Pencil pillar. Thin, steep Joshua Tree face climbing that is very insecure. A fall getting to the second bolt could be disastrous.

Start near a shallow dihedral by reaching/jumping to a large face hold on the right arete of the corner. I think a hard mantle onto this hold is the true crux. More hard face up and right gains another big jug. A terrifying 5.10c mantle here to an obvious chossy jug and the second bolt. Head up and right to the arete and the third bolt on big features. Cross the arete on to easier runnout climbing and an awesome summit.

Considering the nature of the climbing, this is an impressive FFA for 1977!

Location

The beautiful west face of the Lost Pencil. This route starts up on the pedestal. This route gets lots of sun from late in the morning on.

Approach via an easy 20 foot long chimney hidden by boulders on the west face or a short, sharp 5.8 hand crack about 20 feet to the left (north).

To descend, rappel all the way back down from the top to below the approach pitch west with a single 60 meter rope, best to use the route Number Two's anchor for this. Watch your rope ends.

Protection

Three bomber bolts / two bolt rappel anchor - all new.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Great description - related to the character of the route, and perhaps also contributing to the lack of ticks for this one. Mar 10, 2015
Scared me... But I lived to tell about it :) Aug 20, 2012
Randy
  5.11a PG13
Randy  
  5.11a PG13
Did this with Rob Raker way back when. Rob floated the lead of course. Cool summit and worth 3 of 5 stars just because the cool factor. Nov 2, 2010
C Miller   CA  
Originally rated 5.10c. Oct 29, 2010