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All Locations > California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Green Dome > West Face

Quartz Crystal

5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British


 Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes

Routes in West Face

Dagger of the Mind S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Monster in the Maze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Private Little War S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Quartz Crystal S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stealing Fire S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That Which Survives S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dave Griffith
Page Views: 138 total · 1/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Oct 29, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Another hard climb. Haven't done any of the movement on this route, but it looks good.
(adding this for completeness only)

Location

Start on the obvious chalked holds to the right of Private Little War, go straight up to the summit.

Protection

Bolts.

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Quartz Crystal, mid to late 1990's <br> When it was still fairly new, <br> The good ole days!
Quartz Crystal, mid to late 1990's When it was…
 1

3 Comments

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steve edwards
SLC, UT
 
steve edwards   SLC, UT
 
FA: Dave Griffith

Crux hold has broken a bunch and is currently gone. Rumor has it that it can be done by climbing further right and back left at the crux but I've not tried this. Unfortunate, as the rest of the route is stellar. Nov 8, 2010
bob wert
bob wert  
I remember about 10 years ago some douche bag glued a chunk of rock at the crux. About as subtle as those cell towers disguised as pine trees in the desert.

Maybe all that plastic surgery took its toll on the route. Jun 3, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
 
steve edwards   SLC, UT
 
Well the rock isn't pristine and the line is proud. I think a little epoxy would be well worth preserving the climbing. Certainly better than letting it sit and collect cobwebs. Most of the route is kind of a jug and, and VERY fun. It deserves to be fixed. Hopefully tastefully but whomever wants to invest the time should get some artistic license. Mar 14, 2012

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