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Routes in West Face

Dagger of the Mind S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Monster in the Maze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Private Little War S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Quartz Crystal S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stealing Fire S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That Which Survives S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Equipped by Steve Edwards, it may still be undone...
Page Views: 825 total · 9/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Oct 29, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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An interesting start off a good right-hand sidepull and an (optional) undercling to a good left-hand slot gets you going. Another move or two gets you to a ledge from which you can get the second bolt. Prepare yourself and cast off...

Great movement. Awesome position. You should do it.


Start smack dab in the middle of the wall, between Stealing Fire (to the left) and Monsters in the Maze (to the right).


Bolts with open shuts at the top.
The upper headwall is very bolted. Perhaps 4-5 feet between bolts for the crux.
A stick clip might be nice for the start, but is not necessary.


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steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
True, I never redpointed this line and I've not heard of it being done. A lot of pretty decent climbers have thrown themselves at it, at least for short periods of time. Bolts are close up top but a couple were dogging bolts only that I skipped on redpoint. Bad rope drag from the anchors so I used to lower off a fixed biner on the last bolt when I was working it. It's not all that hard as I've done it with a big overlapping one hang and I'm kind of a punter. Nov 8, 2010
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Seriously? Is this thing going to sit here and wait 20 years for me to come back on do it? I'm training for it starting right now... Mar 14, 2012

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