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Routes in The Monolith

Chris Buckley's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giimoozaabi (unfinshed) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0
Monolith, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sasquatch Summer ascent S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, Aid, 80 ft
FA: Bradley White 2006 with Kevin (Top roped)
Page Views: 592 total, 7/month
Shared By: bradley white on Oct 28, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb begins on a ramp to access the shallow corner (5.8). The corner is 5.10 to a hard crux to reestablish yourself onto the face by hoisting up onto it strenuously. There is a no hand rest here. Move up face to clip a above head bolt then tension traverse C-0(we were unable to get it free). After traverse sharply right is the edge of the crag. Keven said the traverse was like 'Flying Hawaiian' but harder. Climb the rock edge arete for twenty five feet (5.8). The edge gets easier towards the the top. Very high exposure and strenuous lay backs including this edge. Only bolted for leading on the top half. Bottom half is not done but there is a set of archaic bolts here up this corner. All galvanized steel and threaded for hangers, a bolt ladder of 3/8" bolts from when and who did it very long ago. Their bolt ladder begins at a two bolt hanging belay below the corners on the right. No hangers on these bolts. Same bolts as Lone Ranger on Yellow Knife buttress. We can't see anymore bolts higher than my tension placement. Did Taunto bolt it then with the Lone Ranger? The bolts probably from the late 1960's-70's.
This is the crag called the 'Monolith'. I'm not interested in their bolted hanging belay. Further down is a birch tree belay ledge. This is a very good climb and I should finish it.
So far I haven't gotten back to it. This climb is a little dirty and obviously sees no traffic. Once cleaned up it will be a memorable climb.

Location

Take NW passage trail pass B.B. Buttress and head up towards 'A Very Nice Crack'. Before the crack go left skirt cliff to woods. Up ahead right are two big ramp boulders are the trail up of the climbers trail. It soon goes right at cairn onto ledges. The ledges are 5.0 for a rope length. No rope needed. Open south facing view. Trail is hard to see from lack of use. Landmark is fissure is the trail up and the rest of it is slabs to the woods again. The Monolith can be seen through the trees and its summit is by stacked logs as steps to access it.
Going from the summit walking down is very intimidating because of the 150+ drop off 2000 feet up. Where the bolts are is at the bottom of the tongue or tip of rock bolted. Much better to be prepared to clip gear before going to the bolts. One bolt zinc plated and two stainless.
Preferable to rappel and not get lowered because of rope drag over a sharp edges. Have to have your act together to top rope here. Don't try anything unless your sure you're going to get back up.
I needed to get a grip on myself as I rappelled down to do anchoring bolts each time I went to hand drill holes. Way scary up here, alone. Why do I like to do this rappelling off of bolt anchors, for sport that requires this agonizing drilling? My long arduous hike and hand drill set up for a relatively short cheap thrill. It would be quite a thrill ride screwing up and going down fast on this one. Have a little time to watch before lump, lump. I thought about it a lot, about keeping safe. Its a location that has taken me some getting used too.

Protection

Bolts. Three bolt belay at top. Bottom half has no pro. Access is made by rappelling down or whatever to finish bolting the route or getting lowered for a belay back up. Needs a lot of work to finish the climb. Some friction on the rope while being lowered and a 11ml has been used. We may have belayed anchored first onto the top rope and rappelled simultaneously on two ropes the other one anchored to the bolts. This stops the wear and tear on one rope getting dragged over the top of the cliff. There are cracks near the top to get a rope stuck in while going down at the wrong place. Be smart up here and stupid scouts (Giimoozaabi) should stay home far, far away from here.
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
On the left side of Monolith high over the gully is the cave like ledge and large birch tree. This is Giimooozaabi's start. Up left from birch is whitish ramp up to the corner overlap. Getting to the start from the ground has not been attempted. Going up the gully high enough to be below the start has not been attempted. Its start is nested in the bulwark of overhung rock. Rappelling in from the top anchor bolts of Monolith down the opposite side of the cliff looks like open space and its not by following the bolts to the right facing corner then down to birch tree. Nov 2, 2015
Ladd

5.10b/c C0
Ladd    
5.10b/c C0
Tried to climb this thing up at the Monolith, but missing hangers and no clear approach to the base of the climb prevented it. Looks hard through the overlap. Nov 1, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Bradley, where does this start? can you provide a more concise route description? I remember you telling me about this in person and I am interested, just having a hard time figuring out where this starts and goes. Mar 30, 2011