Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, Aid, 80 ft|
|FA:||Bradley White 2006 with Kevin (Top roped)|
|Page Views:||592 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||bradley white on Oct 28, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis climb begins on a ramp to access the shallow corner (5.8). The corner is 5.10 to a hard crux to reestablish yourself onto the face by hoisting up onto it strenuously. There is a no hand rest here. Move up face to clip a above head bolt then tension traverse C-0(we were unable to get it free). After traverse sharply right is the edge of the crag. Keven said the traverse was like 'Flying Hawaiian' but harder. Climb the rock edge arete for twenty five feet (5.8). The edge gets easier towards the the top. Very high exposure and strenuous lay backs including this edge. Only bolted for leading on the top half. Bottom half is not done but there is a set of archaic bolts here up this corner. All galvanized steel and threaded for hangers, a bolt ladder of 3/8" bolts from when and who did it very long ago. Their bolt ladder begins at a two bolt hanging belay below the corners on the right. No hangers on these bolts. Same bolts as Lone Ranger on Yellow Knife buttress. We can't see anymore bolts higher than my tension placement. Did Taunto bolt it then with the Lone Ranger? The bolts probably from the late 1960's-70's.
This is the crag called the 'Monolith'. I'm not interested in their bolted hanging belay. Further down is a birch tree belay ledge. This is a very good climb and I should finish it.
So far I haven't gotten back to it. This climb is a little dirty and obviously sees no traffic. Once cleaned up it will be a memorable climb.
LocationTake NW passage trail pass B.B. Buttress and head up towards 'A Very Nice Crack'. Before the crack go left skirt cliff to woods. Up ahead right are two big ramp boulders are the trail up of the climbers trail. It soon goes right at cairn onto ledges. The ledges are 5.0 for a rope length. No rope needed. Open south facing view. Trail is hard to see from lack of use. Landmark is fissure is the trail up and the rest of it is slabs to the woods again. The Monolith can be seen through the trees and its summit is by stacked logs as steps to access it.
Going from the summit walking down is very intimidating because of the 150+ drop off 2000 feet up. Where the bolts are is at the bottom of the tongue or tip of rock bolted. Much better to be prepared to clip gear before going to the bolts. One bolt zinc plated and two stainless.
Preferable to rappel and not get lowered because of rope drag over a sharp edges. Have to have your act together to top rope here. Don't try anything unless your sure you're going to get back up.
I needed to get a grip on myself as I rappelled down to do anchoring bolts each time I went to hand drill holes. Way scary up here, alone. Why do I like to do this rappelling off of bolt anchors, for sport that requires this agonizing drilling? My long arduous hike and hand drill set up for a relatively short cheap thrill. It would be quite a thrill ride screwing up and going down fast on this one. Have a little time to watch before lump, lump. I thought about it a lot, about keeping safe. Its a location that has taken me some getting used too.