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Routes in Olton's Shoulder

Double Bind V4 6B
Flamingo Drinker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Olton's Bulge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Olton’s Shoulder 1936 Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paper Beats Rock T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Torre Oculta T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 223 total · 2/month
Shared By: Andy Busse on Oct 26, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description [Edit]

(East Facing) Take the vertical crack, follow the weakness up and left ascending the easiest line to the summit.

Location [Edit]

Situated on the east face of the major formation, 110’ up the (north/south) chimney that divides Olton’s Shoulder from Liaison. Locate the highest chock stone (boulder), the route begins just north of this.

Protection [Edit]

Gear: Camalots: .5-#4, Nuts.
Descent: Rappel (2) off the SW side (natural anchor, bring cordelette)

Photos

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
I don't think this route sees much traffic. I did it back in 1994 or so, and i've never really heard of anyone else doing it since then. A fun off the beaten path adventure. I'd give a big thumbs down to adding a bolt to the route, but a rap anchor would be nice. I don't remember exactly what we did to get off, but I do remember it being a hassle. Oct 27, 2010
Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
 
Andy Busse   Rapid City, SD
 
The route was climbed last year for the new guidebook. The rappel is somewhat standard for the area and functions quite well for the amount of traffic it has seen. Please keep in mind this is one of the original routes for the entire Black Hills and to modify for your own peace of mind would only devalue the work of the original first ascent party from 1936, even if they stood on someone's shoulder to get it done! Oct 27, 2010
joelhagan Hagan
Rapid City, SD
joelhagan Hagan   Rapid City, SD
"Please keep in mind this is the original route for the entire Black Hills" A. Busse

From the article posted above it appears that the 1936 party climbed at least one of the Cathedral Spires before this route.

Joel Feb 14, 2011
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.6 PG13
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.6 PG13
amazing summit! super easy route with only one hard-ish move getting off the chockstone. the rappel was pretty crummy considering all the vegetation and ledges, but still worth it. gave it the pg-13 b/c if you didn't get up into the groove and fell making the first few initial moves off the chockstone you'd be going for a little (big) trip into the gulley... Aug 17, 2012

More About Olton’s Shoulder 1936 Original Route

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