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Routes in EBGB Block Area

Cheetah TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Control T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
EBGB's T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jane's Getting Serious T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Life in the Fast Lane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sinner's Swing T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tarzan T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Zondo's Perks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob Gaines / Dave Katz: March 1982
Page Views: 882 total, 10/month
Shared By: john durr on Oct 25, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route follows a prominent right slanting dike and makes for an excellent approach pitch to EBGB's. It is pretty worthwhile, but not very sustained. The bolts are in the right places and it is not too stressful for the follower.

Follow the dike up and right past 3 well spaced bolts with a tricky crux between the 2nd and 3rd. Easy climbing on poor quality rock up and right. Surmount a small block with a finger crack and continue up the upper half of the dike (5.10-) past one more bolt on better rock.

Location

This route is down and right of EBGB's block and follows the most appealing of a couple of obvious right leaning dikes. It is in the sun from late morning on.

Protection

4 fat bolts, couple of fat stoppers and cams to 1/2" and a couple of long slings. Gear belay 1/2" to 1-1/2" cams (green and red Camelots). Down climb toward EBGB's is easy but exposed.

Photos

Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
 
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
 
This was a fun, and memorable route. I'm pretty short and ended up having to do a pretty terrifying rightward lunge to a jug with the 2nd bolt well below my feet. Exciting! The upper part is great, it's like walking the plank... Jan 21, 2016
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This is a really fun pitch on a neat feature, recommended. Doesn't get the traffic it deserves despite 2 stars in the Vogel guide, and that one is rather parsimonious with the stars! Probably the traversing nature of the route, both climbers need to be solid.

I believe this is just "Fast Lane" in my older Vogel guide. Good name, since it is the left dike. Nov 26, 2011