PRINT: Rock Climb The Unbearable Lightness of Being, Red River Gorge

The Unbearable Lightness of Being

5.11c, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 95 votes
FA: R. Bateman, J. Thurston, '07
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Bibliothek

Access Issue: Muir Valley is Privately Owned Details

Officially known as Muir Valley Climbing Area and a Nature Preserve, Muir is owned and managed by the Friends of Muir Valley non-profit organization.

In order to keep the valley operating a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to cover upkeep.

Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:

All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.

Description

One of the tough things about finding these routes is that they all look the same. The guidebook helps here.

This fun, juggy line has great movement and some engaging cruxes that lead to a spooky final crux section just below the anchors.

Location

Just right of the big tree- Look for the circle (it says .12a on it)- also look for the thin, flat horizontal pinch that is unique to this route.

Protection

7 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A climber named Jordan busting out an interesting foot cam on the route. October 2010.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

RPariser

5.11+

Very hard 11c. The individual moves are probably no more difficult than 11b/c, but linking this all together is tough. If you find and utilize all of the best holds in the best way possible this might feel like 11c, but good luck figuring it all out and not pumping out on your onsight! Sep 26, 2015

D Scott Clark
Chattanooga, TN

Was psyched after my OS that the tag said 5.12a! But I agree that it didn't feel any harder than 11c. Super fun. Made my OS attempt of Fury difficult though! Nov 6, 2016

Franck Vee

5.11c

11c feels about right. Pretty pumpy, some talks about the moves going for the anchors - to me the crux really was just keeping it together until the chains. Massive jug helped to recover a bit before the last bit. Apr 20, 2022

Jarek Voyles
Beattyville, KY

Dare I say, better than The Fury? Better rests, not as sustained, but definitely more interesting and engaging movement. Far from another mindless jug haul. The crux move to the chains is rad. It could feel either desperate or mad cool depending on your practice with a very particular technique (hint: it’s useful on overhangs) ;) Aug 22, 2023