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Routes in Old Easy

Bear Flare, The T V6 7A
Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A
Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A
Bombay Hooker V6 7A
Boneghazi V3 6A
Borg, The V12 8A+
Cheap Perfume V1 5
Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5
Cincinatti Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+
Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V-easy 3
Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desiderata T V5- 6C
Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian T V7 7A+
Hatchet, The V6 7A
MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MRC Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Psychoshop T V7 7A+
Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+
Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+
Soggy Bottom T V5 6C
Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Boulder, 50 ft
FA: Kris Hampton and Ray Ellington
Page Views: 890 total, 10/month
Shared By: JNE on Oct 24, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is likely Vedauwoo's longest roof crack. Start on a flake jug at the very bottom of the cave and climb rightwards through two big pods, afterwhich the crack bends and heads up the "Sua Slide", which is a long, rectangular tunnel. At the end of this tunnel, follow the crack through some funky offwidth moves as the crack bends again and spits you out of the cave. The only detraction is the fact that the moves right before the offwidth finish are very lowball, though that is forgiveable given the overall quality of the problem. A great and funky mix of many types of crack climbing with a touch of face climbing thrown for good measure.

Location

Park in the main Central parking lot, right below the base of Old Easy. Scramble up the talus as if headed for MRC. About halfway up, veer to the climber's right and head for the large and distinct gully to the right of MRC. Just to the right of the gully and about half way up there is a distinct section of low angled water streaked slabs with a short vertical wall directly to the right of them. The exit of Cincinatti Sua Slide is on the right and at the top of these slabs, though you can't see the cave until you are right in front of it.

Protection

A spotter and maybe a pad for the lip moves.

Photos

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honeyjacket  
 
2 stars for the climbing, a third for the crazy slide/elevator shaft feature. May 25, 2016