Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Richard Harrison & Jay Smith 1977 |
Page Views: | 1,989 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Bill Kelly on Oct 24, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Where's the crux? For pitch 1, it is just before moving into the OW. For pitch 2, it is the hand crack above the chimney.
What's good? It's adventurous. When it's cleaned up through use, it will be more popular. It gets you high, offers great views. Protects well. Also sets you up for toproping nearby routes.
What's bad? It's pretty dirty, you have to work through some brush, dirt, lichen to accomplish the pitches. (Some climbers take to these conditions less than others.)
NOTE: After exiting chimney at the start of the second pitch, one challenge is to manage the rope so it doesn't get stuck in the narrowing, constricting, overhanging section of the crack.
What's good? It's adventurous. When it's cleaned up through use, it will be more popular. It gets you high, offers great views. Protects well. Also sets you up for toproping nearby routes.
What's bad? It's pretty dirty, you have to work through some brush, dirt, lichen to accomplish the pitches. (Some climbers take to these conditions less than others.)
NOTE: After exiting chimney at the start of the second pitch, one challenge is to manage the rope so it doesn't get stuck in the narrowing, constricting, overhanging section of the crack.
Location
Approx. 100 meters climber's right of Hospital Corner area. The Banana is climber's right of Third Stone.
Protection
Route protects well. I found a 4 and 5 camelot helpful. First, in the dirty offwidth of pitch 1, later high up in the chimney at the start of pitch 2. Either belay in the chimney or, if you like to run it out, keep going. There's a fixed pin in there that can be backed up. You can rap from this location easily with a 70m.
After Pitch 2, you can top out or rap from a prominent tree above West Wall. See picture. I've always rapped. There is an intermediate rap station. Two raps to ground.
Good news. Several large loose blocks and flakes have been trundled recently in the area. Makes for much more peace of mind. Third Stone and Banana share the same belay stance for first pitch.
After Pitch 2, you can top out or rap from a prominent tree above West Wall. See picture. I've always rapped. There is an intermediate rap station. Two raps to ground.
Good news. Several large loose blocks and flakes have been trundled recently in the area. Makes for much more peace of mind. Third Stone and Banana share the same belay stance for first pitch.
3 Comments