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Routes in The Speedway

Beefwhale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memphis Bound/Road Trip to Graceland T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: D Brayshaw A Cairns 1996 (possibly previously by J Chilton 1992)
Page Views: 26 total · 0/month
Shared By: Dru on Oct 24, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

An apparently wide crack, but few true wide crack skills are needed because of plentiful face holds. Start at a single bolt belay on the ledge. Climb a left-facing corner that leans back to become a right-trending ramp. Near the top of the ramp, pull a small roof and move left on a ledge to gain a diagonal offwidth. Laybacky underclingy moves with face holds out left lead to a vertical chimney type feature with finger and hand cracks in the back and good stemming, and eventually the anchor.

Location

Chain station; 50m rappel back to the base or hike up across the ledge on top to This Is Your Brain and climb a route there.

Protection

Full rack from small-med wire nuts up to #4 Camalot.

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