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Routes in This Is Your Brain

Idiot Savant T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jugular Vein T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mad Science T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: D Brayshaw, C Campbell 1995
Page Views: 45 total · 0/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Oct 23, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Scramble up low-angle rock (3rd class) to a ledge below the route and a possible gear belay. Begin up a right-facing layback corner that turns into straight in jamming (gear to 3.5"). Where the crack dies out, move right onto a featured face, traversing past one bolt, then up a line of holds past four more bolts. The last bolt below the top has a hangerless bolt next to it (old station). The actual station is on chains just over the lip.

The opening and finishing moves are cruxy while much of the intermediate climbing is easier with several good rests.

Location

On the left side of This Is Your Brain.

IMPORTANT NOTE: the rappel from the top chains is about 61m. A 60m rope barely makes it down if you rappel. Because of the zigzag in the climb, though, if you try and lower off the top and don't unclip, your rope will come up short!

Protection

Three or four cams from finger size to #3 or 3.5 camalot, plus 5 bolts

Photos

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