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Routes in Scatterbrain Boulder

Lapse of Logic V1 5
Scatterbrain V6 7A
Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 5,205 total, 60/month
Shared By: C Miller on Oct 22, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Start from a high incut edge and slap, pinch and heel hook your way up the overhung arete to a finishing jug. Classic.

A sit start has more recently been done at around V11 (?).

Location

Northeast arete of the boulder

Protection

Pad(s), spotter

Photos

@RTM "btw - Mr. Pringle couldn't do it."

Why you gotta be such a dream killer? hahaahaha Jan 30, 2011
RTM
RTM  
he's Chris Miller man, JT extraordinair! I'm suprised he didn't name it too!

btw - Mr. Pringle couldn't do it. Jan 12, 2011
Miller doesn't get any flack for proposing an inflated grade having never climbed it...yet I get flack for proposing a downgrade? hmm...!?~

Haha Hey Christina and I had a funny conversation about that; would you rather be a Douche (grade inflater) or an A-Hole (sandbagger)? I prefer to be an A-Hole! Anyway so be it; I'll add the sit to my project list and report back (though it may be AWHILE lolz~) Jan 11, 2011
RTM
RTM  
He's got the right idea, he just needs refinement. Noel, you're good, with my help ...you could be the best! The sit the Scatterbrain, imo, was one of the last great unclimbed projects in the "monument", and I am thrilled to see it go down>! Dec 9, 2010
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
So you didn't send the V6, and you're downrating the V11 sit? sounds logical to me. Scatterbrain is overstarred IMO, but still a very good, tricky and kinda reachy problem....gets the extra star because it's in the campground. Dec 7, 2010
RTM
RTM  
Climb it first, then downrate it. Looks hard to me! Dec 7, 2010
I worked on Scatterbrain for the first time this past weekend. Also got a good look at the sit start. Not as bad as you'd think; you can even match start on a rather big (juggy) flake, then move left to the crimp side pull. From there, it's a good left heel hook or right heel hook, then up to the crimp right hand of the stand start. Whatever works for you but I wouldn't say V11, maybe a JTree V7 or V8? Dec 7, 2010