Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Andrew Mcdowell, Nathan Brown
Page Views: 896 total · 9/month
Shared By: nbrown on Oct 22, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Start above a rock pedestal and carefully climb to the first of 3 bolts, or stick clip. Crux your way up to ramp and climb to easier ground and gear. Continue up and left on jugs past more gear and a bolt to a funky overlap top-out at a 2 bolt anchor. Save a 2 inch cam for the overlap at the top.

Location

This is in a dark streak above a rock pedestal/mount. It is just left of "flaming lips", which is the leftmost of 3 bolted lines.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3 inch cam

Photos

JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
  5.11c
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
  5.11c
The first 25 feet of this thing is the most difficult to read rock I have ever climbed. Jun 17, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Great addition! I really liked this route. The first 3 bolts are sustained and exciting. The upper section had great position and movement. The final moves to the anchor are wild, especially if you don't have a second #1. I had purple tricam, which was okay. May 7, 2014