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Dragonfly

5.9+, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 86 votes
FA: Reggie Walters & Kyle Thompson, 2007
S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Blue Sky > Pheromone Wall

Description

Route goes up a huge, detached block of blue/black weathered limestone that leans against the main wall. Smeary opening moves lead to a few bolts of easier climbing followed by a stance before a committing, yet well protected high-step move.

A series of underclings followed by more delicate slab moves leads to anchors at the top of the slab.

Fun moves on brilliant stone that is characteristic of Blue Sky.

Location

Uphill to the left of 'Flight' on the left side of the obvious detached blue/black slab.

Be careful of scree on the top of the block.

Protection

8 Bolts, cold shuts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Great climb with great views. Climb this route then enjoy the rappel!
[Hide Photo] Great climb with great views. Climb this route then enjoy the rappel!
From the start of Dragonfly. Get on this slab! When the going gets impossible think "undercling!"
[Hide Photo] From the start of Dragonfly. Get on this slab! When the going gets impossible think "undercling!"
Climbing this fun route on a hot July day, we Colorado climbers found an entire Blue Sky crag to ourselves. South Dakota was a nice change.
[Hide Photo] Climbing this fun route on a hot July day, we Colorado climbers found an entire Blue Sky crag to ourselves. South Dakota was a nice change.
The best 5.9 in the canyon.
[Hide Photo] The best 5.9 in the canyon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
[Hide Comment] Good route nice job. Old school. Oct 25, 2010
BBQ
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed it for the umpteenth time the other day in between 5.12 projects and it still sends a chill down my spine! Awesome route! Get on it! Oct 25, 2011
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.9
[Hide Comment] delicate and slabby smears. pretty atypical for the spearfish routes. really fun, honest but hard 5.9, and no give aways on this route. get on it! Jul 25, 2013