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Routes in Utah Wall

Airtime T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Apex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apex Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In The Pink T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyers, Guns, and Money T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right of the Roof T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Shotgun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shotgun (Variation) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (TR) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Utah Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown (right most crack in the roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 939 total · 10/month
Shared By: wasatch-mtn-man on Oct 21, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is essentially Shotgun but with the variation of pulling the roof further down instead of continuing up into the apex of the roof before pulling out. Although similar to Shotgun, we thought it was fun enough to include it as a separate route.

Just after you exit the splitter 'lighting bolt' crack you will see two cracks in the roof that angle up and to climber's left. Hold your breath and work these two overhanging cracks until you get on the upper face. Easy ascent from there. Committing and FUN!

Protection

As per Shotgun - plus you can clip a piece of history and clip the piton in the higher of the two cracks. Can be protected well with a #2 Camalot - maybe even a #3.

Photos

Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
 
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
 
This is a burly roof if I've ever climbed one! Pretty fun trad lead. There is a piton you can clip right under the roof, but on lead, it might be best not to clip it (I did...). The rope drag is very much decreased if you don't, and while leading, the rope doesn't get in your way. You've just got to be 100% confident in your #2 placement in the roof. That's the catch. My #2 caught two falls. So it is a bomber placement! Jun 29, 2013
William Kramer
Kemmerer, WY
  5.9+
William Kramer   Kemmerer, WY
  5.9+
Love the jams pulling the roof!

I agree, don't clip the pin, even with a long runner it's more of a burden. Aug 15, 2015

More About Shotgun (Variation)

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