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Routes in The Boneyard

Abby Gabby Goo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed Insurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bangers and Mash S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cindarella S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
First Fast Draw, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Serpents S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Glide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gym Jones Approved S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Haggis, Neeps and Taties S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hematopoiesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hijacked Project S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hoosierheights.com S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Slow Draw, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucy Goosey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lula Mae T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oink! Oink! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One-Armed Bandit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Renegade T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Son of a Wanted Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealing Melinda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surfing the Whale's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet Tater S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tanduay Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tao Bato S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trouble in Paradise S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Warrior's Path, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winona T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 73 ft
FA: Craig Lubben, Kris Hampton. 2006.
Page Views: 470 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 19, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A fun gear-protected route that uses a crack for protection but offers good face holds, jugs, pockets and side-pulls for holds.

Boulder up the undercut start to a good horizontal ledge and your first piece of gear. Follow plates and good holds past the only bolt on the route and up the steepening rock to the crux, a faint bulge with fewer holds near the top. Trend left to follow the crack and clip the anchor.

Based on the large amount of spider webs I had to clear before and during climbing this route, I don't think this sees much traffic. Too bad...it's a fine line.

Location

The most obvious crack with a single bolt about 50 feet left of Gym Jones Approved

Protection

Supplement the single bolt about 20 feet up with BD cams from .5 to #3. I didn't place any nuts.

Photos

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Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
 
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
 
Lots of webs, dirty down low, but was a fantastic route! Climbs very sporty with all of the plates and edges. Jul 17, 2017