Type: Trad, 73 ft
FA: Craig Lubben, Kris Hampton. 2006.
Page Views: 536 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 19, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

A fun gear-protected route that uses a crack for protection but offers good face holds, jugs, pockets and side-pulls for holds.

Boulder up the undercut start to a good horizontal ledge and your first piece of gear. Follow plates and good holds past the only bolt on the route and up the steepening rock to the crux, a faint bulge with fewer holds near the top. Trend left to follow the crack and clip the anchor.

Based on the large amount of spider webs I had to clear before and during climbing this route, I don't think this sees much traffic. Too bad...it's a fine line.

Location

The most obvious crack with a single bolt about 50 feet left of Gym Jones Approved

Protection

Supplement the single bolt about 20 feet up with BD cams from .5 to #3. I didn't place any nuts.

Photos

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Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
 
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
 
Lots of webs, dirty down low, but was a fantastic route! Climbs very sporty with all of the plates and edges. Jul 17, 2017