Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gogarth

A Dream of White Horses T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rift, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scavenger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: 1966 - Martin Boysen & J Jordan
Page Views: 90 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rob Davies UK on Oct 19, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal closure for bird nesting. Details

Description

Sample the atmosfear of Gogarth's Main Cliff at a very modest grade. N.B. Failure is not an option as the tide comes in!

P1 30' 5.7: From the waterline climb steeply, mostly on good holds, to a large sloping ledge.

P2 120' 5.9 (for one move): Climb the corner groove above for 30' (crux) then move right around the arete on a diagonal break for about 20' to reach another steep groove / crack. Up this (wonderful 5.7 jug-pulling) to a good ledge.

P3 110' 5.5: Continue up the groove to easier broken ground. Right then back left to the top.

Location

Scavenger is at the left-hand side of the Main Cliff. Approach down the descent gully at the right end of the Upper Tier, keep moving left and down across steep grass (very dodgy if wet) until near sea level. The traverse underneath the (seriously steep) Main Cliff is only possible when the tide is lowish and the sea reasonably calm. Keep an eye out for the wake from the Holyhead-Dublin ferry and over-friendly seals. Keep traversing left until things get hard. Best method of finding the correct starting point is to look for a party above you and ask "Are you on Scavenger". If they reply "Yes" you may be at the right point.

Anyone approaching the cliff by canoe will find this topo useful:
wikitopo.com/crag.php?tId=93

Protection

Carry a good mix of gear, especially medium-large nuts plus a good selection of cams.

Description

Sample the atmosfear of Gogarth's Main Cliff at a very modest grade.

P1 30' 5.7: From the waterline climb steeply, mostly on good holds, to a large sloping ledge.

P2 120' 5.9 (for one move): Climb the corner groove above for 30' (crux) then move right around the arete on a diagonal break for about 20' to reach another steep groove / crack. Up this (wonderful 5.7 jug-pulling) to a good ledge.

P3 110' 5.5: Continue up the groove to easier broken ground. Right then back left to the top.

Location

Scavenger is at the left-hand side of the Main Cliff. Approach down the descent gully at the right end of the Upper Tier, keep moving left and down across steep grass (very dodgy if wet) until near sea level. The traverse underneath the (seriously steep) Main Cliff is only possible when the tide is lowish and the sea reasonably calm. Keep an eye out for the wake from the Holyhead-Dublin ferry and over-friendly seals. Keep traversing left until things get hard. Best method of finding the correct starting point is to look for a party above you and ask "Are you on Scavenger". If they reply "Yes" you may be at the right point.

Protection

Carry a good mix of gear, especially medium-large nuts plus a good selection of cams.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments