Hands to fists up corner
P2: 5.11/12 One of the best pitches I've been on in Sedona, Amazing. Splitter! First half probably 5.10 to overhanging fingers through two bolts to anchors on ledge, 5.11/12? Need some input on the grade! Spectacular! Feels like Annunkai at Indian Creek but steeper! (and unfortunately shorter) Possible to rap from here. (Very very cool 98% free hanging rap) These two pitches are definitely worth the hike!
P3: 5.11+/12- FFA Jones/Bloom Off balance, moderate face climbing into sandy crack system, place a bomber piece or two (.5/.4 camalot) beneath the bulgy block, some hollow sounding/looking rock just below the good jams. Clip a bolt and mantle the dirt clod! Don't be surprised if you feel like a monkey F-ing a football. Press it out and clip one more bolt and head up short crack to the roof. Build yerself a nice lil nest of bomber gear at the roof and get yer head on straight. Desperate laybacking past the roof will take you to the next anchors. Possible to place gear in this section, but strenuous. Congrats to Abel for getting the FFA on this pitch.
P4: 5.7 Very short bear crawl traverse to anchor, feels short but it will make sense on the next pitch and the rap
P5: 5.9 R Hold onto your sack, take one draw, one #4 BD with a long sling, one #3BD. Leave your helmet and anything else you don't need and head into the abyss. I believe this is also the last pitch of the NW face route. Expect a 50-60ft unprotected chimney! you can place the #4 at the base of the chimney but there is no gear til you top out! On this lower summit drop the number three into an obvious slot to protect the second and clip the anchor down by the lip, you will be directly above your partner at this point. (It is possible to summit the upper tower by climbing the 5.9r face as noted in the NW route description)
-pitches are relatively short, but linking not recommended everything is really right where it needs to be-
West face of Supercrack Tower. Rack up at base of "Hotdog in a Hallway" and walk across ledge system to anchors. Rap first two pitches with 2 70's, 2 60's look very very doable but is untested! or continue up for 3 more pitches of pure mindbending excitement. From the top rap one single rope and second rap is double rope back to packs (this is can be done with 2 60m rope but can definitely not be done with one 70)
Doubles through 3.5BD
One #4
Multiples in the blue/yellow metolius TCU
Offset nuts and Aliens very nice to have for C2 pitch
Flagstaff, AZ
Flagstaff, AZ
Is the burn area starting to grow back yet? Nov 17, 2010
Phoenix
I can't wait to get back on this! Nov 23, 2010
Durango
Bishop, CA
Pitch 3 went free Jan 26th. Bloom onsighted pitch 2 and I onsighted the now clean enough aid pitch. I wouldn't say its super clean and open for business but if you choose your holds wisely you can eek through at 11+. Bloom cleaned a bit more on the follow. Overall the route is amazing and I can tell that aiding pitch 3 would have been scary enough to keep me up at night. The props go to Dustin and Dean for pushing that chunk off and popping in 2 bolts. After some more sends it will add to the classic nature of the tower. Both cruxes on P3 are extremely well protected... the 5.9 P5 finish on the other hand was wild to the top. Jan 27, 2012
Bishop, CA
Flagstaff, AZ
Bishop, CA
In case anyone was wondering, you can rappel from the top of pitch 2 with (1) 60m rope, in 2 rappels. Apr 25, 2014