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Routes in Aspen Alley

Analog Analogy T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Boy (aka Serendipity) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digital Dilemma S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gila Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Staircase to the Patio T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed Crack Left of Zorro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zorro T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: (?)
Page Views: 111 total, 1/month
Shared By: James Olsen on Oct 18, 2010
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Begin just to the left of the open book, go up about 6' and move into open book. Ascend to overhang and work yourself out a little onto right face (the crux - at this point you achieve serendipity). Ascend again between overhang and face to a point above the overhang. The climb now becomes a friction pitch with a few cracks here and there, then rock rolls over toward the anchors (65' elev. change, climb distance longer).

Location

Serendipity starts out about 30' left of Digital Dilemma in an open book under a rounded overhang. It ends at the Digital Dilemma chains. Rap down from chains.

Protection

Bring small and medium cams. Good settings in crack at back of open book and under overhang. Enough settings on cracks in friction pitch. Bring long sling to set rope 6' to 8' from anchor if you intend to rap down and belay second from bottom to lessen rope drag.

Photos

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Hanger missing on bolt today, but bolt can be slung with a wire for pro. Oct 20, 2013
Howard Snell
Belen, New Mexico
Howard Snell   Belen, New Mexico
I agree w/ Bill's comment over on the Staircase to the Patio thread - these two climbs share the same start, but Blue Boy follows a straighter line up to the anchors (thus retains the 5.8).

There is a bolt a ways above the roof on Blue Boy that can be skipped if you want the flavor of the original ascent. Place a C3 at your feet below the bolt and then go for the right facing crack above with another C3 after you pass the bolt. Jun 24, 2013
TP regulars tell me this route has also been called Blue Boy, climbed pre-2010. Jun 13, 2011