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Routes in Twin Gate

Blood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climbing School S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Da Fei Ji (Big Airplane) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Da Pi Gu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smokin' S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ta Ma De (aka Xiao Fei Ji) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Three Point Five S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Xin Jiang Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Ken & Karen McMahon 1998 P2: Paul Collis, Alex Xi Tang 2003
Page Views: 243 total, 3/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Oct 16, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Another fun, challenging route at Twin Gate. A few hard sections keep you on your toes the entire route, though there are several good rests along the way. The beginning has an out-of-character hard overhanging start: many folks bypass this with an easier (though still exciting) traverse in from the left.

Pitch two is rarely done, though I understand the climbing is good. Please be aware of loose rock, as stuff consistently seems to come down from the upper pitches on Twin Gate, and likely will continue to do so until they clean up a bit more.

Location

2nd from the farthest right, on Twin Gates main face. The start is an awkward, strenuous overhanging bit OR just climb the easier start about 10 feet left and traverse over. Nice to have a good spotter here.

Protection

Bolts to fixed anchors, rappel descent. First pitch is easy to T.R.

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