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Routes in Wayback Layback Area (FTGU Right)

Bloody Finger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bootsauce T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack Of Dawn T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sliver T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Wayback Layback T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Darren Jensen 1993 (possibly TR only?)
Page Views: 647 total, 7/month
Shared By: Dru on Oct 16, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Climb the long, sustained, right leaning finger crack. A mix of jamming and face climbing with a few tiny face holds for rests. Near the top it is possible to stem right to the next crack (Sliver) At top, move left under block to the belay of Wayback Layback.

A massive sandbag at 10d in the original Bluffs guide.

Location

Just right of Wayback Layback, the central crack line up this section of cliff.

Protection

Lots of finger size gear - small to med. nuts and #0 TCU to #4 metolius sized pieces.

Photos

Dru
 
Dru  
 
The original guide to Harrison Bluffs was written by Alex Howden and came out in the late 1990s. It has been re-photocopied many times and contains a number of horrendous sandbags (like Tubby and His Pal at 10a+). Also it doesn't distinguish between redpoints, TR-only ascents and other details. Several routes were given free grades and FA credits when they had only in fact been done with hangs on TR. Not to cast blame - most of the initial Bluffs climbers learned to climb at the Bluffs and at the time Alex's guide came out, had only a vague idea of how climbers elsewhere did things, and an apprehension of being accused of overgrading too. Feb 20, 2017
slim    
dru mentions an original bluffs guide. was/is there a guide to this general area, and/or other areas in this region? Feb 6, 2017
Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
Mike Teschke   North Vancouver
Fun finger crack, a couple letter grades harder than its neighbor Wayback Layback. Jun 9, 2011
Marc-Andre
Squamish, B.C
Marc-Andre   Squamish, B.C
Ya, not sure if it was led bitd.... but it has been red pointed now for sure. Ya, 10d is a lil sandbag, this thing is harder than 'Crime of the Century' for sure. Dec 18, 2010