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Routes in Bird's Eye and Sporty Area

Bumping Uglies - open project TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Butolicious S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Nameles Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Owl's Cliff Corner (The OCC), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Owliola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sporty Owl, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Talon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 332 total · 4/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Oct 16, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Owliola follows the broken orange corner just right of The OCC near the left end of the Sporty Area, finishing up the obvious handcrack in the right facing corner, formed by the big square flake at mid height of the cliff (no second pitch yet).

After the initial broken corner, traverse right to clip the second bolt and continue past it around the arete to get to a good jug. Use that to get your self up onto the small slab above and move back left, passing 1 or 2 more bolts, then head up to the final steep corner crack to the anchor.

This route climbs quite well, better than you might think looking at the base. I recommend it.

Location

Down towards the left side of the Sporty Area, just after the wide crack start of "Sporty Owl" and before the smooth sided large "Owl Cliff Corner". Below this route, the trail makes a step up and then you would switch back right to get to the base of "Lady of The Lake", or go left and up over a pile of rocks to get to the sharp fin of "Talon"

Protection

Trad rack to #3 Camalot and 4 bolts, doubles of the #2 and 3 Cams are nice for the top corner crack if you want to really load it up, shoulder slings. 2 bolt anchor, 60 m rope needed. A couple of the placements midway are in rattly rock, where opposing nuts are helpful. The climbing is not too challenging and positive in that spot though so you should be fine and you clip a bolt soon after.

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