Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

On second thought

5.11d, Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Nathan Brown, Andrew Mcdowell, Dennis Merritt
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Whiteside Mountain > Left of main southeas…
Warning Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) - New online pass system DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a great climb with lots of variety. It has a short and bouldery crux that can easily be aided at 5.11 A0. Be sure to sling much of the gear in the middle of the route (under roof) long.

P-1. Climb up to a bolt in the ramp that leads right past a pin and another bolt. Face climb on wild crystals to a stance below left facing corner and get some gear ( small nuts). Climb past a small/med cam (offset works well here) to the bolt and then up to a stance below roof. Move left past possible .4 camelot (sling long) and clip bolt above roof. Continue left then make some funky delicate moves to gain the face above. Climb past 2 more bolts and some balancy mantel moves to an anchor at 100'.

Location

This route is located just before reaching a vegetated gully/chimney that seperates the shorter walls with the main face. If you reach the funky log in the trail you've just passed the start. Look for the rightmost line just right of a couple boulders leaning against the wall.

Protection

Standard rack up to 2 or 3 inch cam.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing on the cool quartz knobs down low.
[Hide Photo] Climbing on the cool quartz knobs down low.
Phil approaching the crux roof.
[Hide Photo] Phil approaching the crux roof.
Phil posing for a shot for top rope magazine...
[Hide Photo] Phil posing for a shot for top rope magazine...