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Attack of the White Owl

5.13b, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Ward Smith
New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Owl's Cliff > Left Cliff > White Owl Face & Laug…

Description

Impressive, very thin, techy face climbing up the middle of the shear White Owl Face. It is the bolted line just right of The Owl Cliff Club. From the ground it looks like there are no holds. Though it is a bit painful, being so thin, it is a very good route. It requires stamina, good beta and clear eyes so you can see the microscopic foot holds. A bit of a reach wouldn't hurt either, though a 5 foot tall climber has done all the moves, so no excuses.

Ward graded this 13b when he did it, but it has not had a known successful 2nd ascent yet, even TR, so that grade may be a bit sandbag. It felt as hard or harder than Dark Star at Rumney to me, with smaller holds though it is not quite as steep. Edit - It finally got a 2nd ascent in 2022

Wear your best edging shoes.

Location

Straight up the middle of the White Owl Face, to the right of the flake of Owl Cliff Club

Protection

sport, bolts to an anchor shared with Owl Cliff Club. Stick clip the high first bolt or use a couple of cams in the horizontal.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Big reaches to not-so-big crimps
[Hide Photo] Big reaches to not-so-big crimps
One last lockoff to get out of the business section
[Hide Photo] One last lockoff to get out of the business section
Franky on some of the micro crimps
[Hide Photo] Franky on some of the micro crimps

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ward Smith
Wendell MA
[Hide Comment] I didn't stick-clip, but used a couple of cams in the horizontal before the first bolt. Apr 6, 2011
Nick C
NH
[Hide Comment] Second ascent by Franky Lapitino! Hell yeah dude! Oct 17, 2022
Franky Lapitino
New London, NH
  5.13c
[Hide Comment] Yesterday I managed the second ascent (to my knowledge) of this spectacular route. It is truly a special line for the northeast and deserves many more ascents. It is viciously sustained, featuring perfect edges and highstep-lockoff moves that will make you feel like a superhero. I can say without a doubt it would rank as a classic in the New River Gorge, the homeland of stellar face climbs. If you love vertical face climbs and sustained edging, put this one on your life list. Oct 17, 2022
Ward Smith
Wendell MA/Wentworth NH
 
[Hide Comment] Congrats! I always thought this one was special since I felt that I was nowhere close to sending on a top rope before I tried leading and did it first try. Nothing better than a remote send. Oct 17, 2022
Franky Lapitino
New London, NH
  5.13c
[Hide Comment] Video of this climb:
m.youtube.com/watch?v=uJXZE… Oct 25, 2022