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Attack of the White Owl

5.13b, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Ward Smith
New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Owl's Cliff > Left Cliff > White Owl Face & Laug…

Description

Impressive, very thin, techy face climbing up the middle of the shear White Owl Face. It is the bolted line just right of The Owl Cliff Club. From the ground it looks like there are no holds. Though it is a bit painful, being so thin, it is a very good route. It requires stamina, good beta and clear eyes so you can see the microscopic foot holds. A bit of a reach wouldn't hurt either, though a 5 foot tall climber has done all the moves, so no excuses.

Ward graded this 13b when he did it, but it has not had a known successful 2nd ascent yet, even TR, so that grade may be a bit sandbag. It felt as hard or harder than Dark Star at Rumney to me, with smaller holds though it is not quite as steep.

Wear your best edging shoes.

Location

Straight up the middle of the White Owl Face, to the right of the flake of Owl Cliff Club

Protection

sport, bolts to an anchor shared with Owl Cliff Club. Stick clip the high first bolt or use a couple of cams in the horizontal.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ward Smith
Wendell MA
[Hide Comment] I didn't stick-clip, but used a couple of cams in the horizontal before the first bolt. Apr 6, 2011
M Sprague
New England
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Amazing, no known second ascent yet Jan 26, 2019
Phil lip
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] A double-draw is nice at the 5th bolt. Come prepared with plenty of skin and poise for this perfect face climb! Mar 18, 2021