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Space Invaders

5.12a, Trad, TR, 40 ft,  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Chris Falkenstein
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Royal Arches Area > Royal Arches Boulder…
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Steep and intimidating even on toprope, the Space Invader starts at 4" and only gets wider. Tie in and get ready to struggle, whether you choose to jam it or layback.

Location

Just west of the Ahwahnee parking lot (just before the road splits into the lot), approximately 50' north, directly into the boulders. You can see the top of the crack (6" crack) from the road.

Protection

The anchor is one good bolt and one not-so-good bolt. A couple directionals in the 4-5" range are highly recommended, as the route overhangs 45 degrees. Be careful setting up the TR, it is exposed and slippery.

If leading, you might need/want 2 each 4-5". One 6" piece will do.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Big cams for the big crack!<br>
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Photo credit: Eric Bissell
[Hide Photo] Big cams for the big crack! Photo credit: Eric Bissell
Gaping maw.<br>
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Photo credit: Eric Bissell
[Hide Photo] Gaping maw. Photo credit: Eric Bissell
As always, staying in place is easy (sort of) but moving is HARD.<br>
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Photo credit: Eric Bissell
[Hide Photo] As always, staying in place is easy (sort of) but moving is HARD. Photo credit: Eric Bissell
Getting ready...<br>
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Photo credit: Eric Bissell
[Hide Photo] Getting ready... Photo credit: Eric Bissell

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] It's Space Invaders, with an 's' on the end, like the video game. Not Space Invader. Nov 18, 2010
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
[Hide Comment] Re: the FA

Two days ago from Dick Cilley on the WideFetish Forum :

For years ,most people thought I did the fa of that thing.Then I heard that Falkenstein had done it Nov 21, 2010
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Here is how I did it. Your mileage may vary!


youtube.com/watch?v=VBeKFJL… Aug 28, 2011
Sirius
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] ^ Damn! Apr 7, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
[Hide Comment] We replaced the questionable bolt in the anchor with a nice shiny stainless bolt this past spring (May 2017). All bomber and ready for you to hang all over it on TR! Oct 10, 2017