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Routes in The North End

Aggro Monk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Black Uhuru S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blo Jo Jono S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Boulder Hypocricy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Churning in the Cheese S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Darrylect of Dialect, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Form, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Function, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Houses of the Holy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
I Like It Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Coral S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Primera Vez S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Laser Gods S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lifus's Farm Tools, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makadon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mono Jono S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New and Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nyorgai S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quiet Time S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Swanktofy Yourself S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thing 1, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thing 2, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Hand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Under the Milky Way S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up Your Booty Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Don Goodhue
Page Views: 738 total, 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Aggro Monk is a good line involving a really fun, athletic boulder problem to clear a body-length roof, and a sustained finish that builds a steady pump. Unfortunately the rock on the upper headwall is not as good as it looks, detracting slightly from the route's quality.

Scramble up the right end of the flake to a no-hands stance below the roof. A hard move gains the break, then launch out the horizontal roof on small but sinker pockets. Clever beta or wild dynos will get you over the lip to a poor rest. Long, technical moves between small crimps and the odd pocket weave deviously up the stout headwall.

Location

On the Heaven Wall (which is near the left end of The North End). This is the second route from the left.

Protection

~6 bolts to 2 BA. Currently there are fixed draws on the headwall. Bring a sling or long draw for the first bolt (DMM Revolver helps). There's a big runout on 5.3-ish terrain to reach the first bolt.

Photos

Now, this could be totally hallucinatory, but I recall that Don pulled a figure 4 at, or slightly over the roof. I tried the move that way, but sussed other beta. Seemed liked he had no trouble doing it though. Oct 19, 2010
slim    
Seems like just unclipping the first would be the way to go. Have you ever seen what happens when somebody falls on a pulley with very little friction anywhere else? Total meat launch for the belayer and total meat bomb for the climber. Oct 12, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Due to lack of friction btwn the rope & biner? I think it's doubtful one would fall onto the first bolt, since you can clip the second easily from the horizontal break. Plus the 2nd bolt is close enough that you never really lead above the 1st bolt, and the 1st is ~30' up, so you'd have to pull the belayer that far to hit the ground, which would be hard to do on what amounts to a TR fall. But ya, use your own judgment. Oct 12, 2010
slim    
Mono, are you sure you would recommend a Revolver for the first bolt? Falling on a Revolver at the first bolt would be guaranteed crater. Oct 12, 2010