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Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep

5.8, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 103 votes
FA: Chris Perkins
Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head > Training Grounds
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Description

This fine little climb is just to the right of Whole Lotta Sober. Climb up through two small roofs with the crux at the second roof. The rock is well featured and the climbing is mostly easier than 5.9 with a short crux.

Location

This is the furthest left line of bolts on the wall. It starts to the right of some jumbled blocks at the base. Descend from a two bolt anchor at the top.

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kristen cruising up TMNNES. Pike's Peak in the background, 09/03/2018.
[Hide Photo] Kristen cruising up TMNNES. Pike's Peak in the background, 09/03/2018.
Me getting to the crux of this short but fun route! 09/03/2018.
[Hide Photo] Me getting to the crux of this short but fun route! 09/03/2018.
Looks like the gear was good, but now you can be less Sober and just clip it up.
[Hide Photo] Looks like the gear was good, but now you can be less Sober and just clip it up.
Starting the route at the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] Starting the route at the first bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This climb was fitted with bolts summer of 2010. FA Chris Perkins. Indeed it can be lead via trad, but the end of the climb is pretty run out after pulling the roof, and the wall in general needed more beginner routes. Apr 19, 2011
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Actually, I was thinking about this. "Whole Lotta Sober" is the line _just_ left of this line. It is still trad and pulls through the weakeness in the roof. The crux is pulling onto the blank-ish face above the hang. Good pro at the crux. "First Blood" pulls the roof further left of this.

This line was bolted after Whole Lotta Sober and is yet to be named. I have the FA on both lines, and have not thought of a name yet. Tod's son did the SA. It's definitely 5.7 and sports a giant "surprise" under the lower overhang. I'm leaning towards "Too much nooky, not enough sleep".

cheers.
-chris Apr 21, 2011
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. We had a newer climber with us, and she had trouble on the routes to the right (at the roof section of each one). This one she did. Jun 18, 2012
Fisher Martin
Golden, CO
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] My favorite climb at the crag. Fun roof and absolutely massive chickenhead (cow-head?) made it a little unique.

Seemed to be on the easier side of 5.8 - though I would buy 5.7 if "Baton" is truly 5.7. Oct 11, 2021