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Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep
5.8,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.1 from 103
votes
FA: Chris Perkins
Colorado
> S Platte
> Devil's Head
> Training Grounds
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection.
The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This fine little climb is just to the right of
Whole Lotta Sober. Climb up through two small roofs with the crux at the second roof. The rock is well featured and the climbing is mostly easier than 5.9 with a short crux.
Location
This is the furthest left line of bolts on the wall. It starts to the right of some jumbled blocks at the base. Descend from a two bolt anchor at the top.
Protection
6 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
[Hide Photo] Kristen cruising up TMNNES. Pike's Peak in the background, 09/03/2018.
[Hide Photo] Me getting to the crux of this short but fun route! 09/03/2018.
[Hide Photo] Looks like the gear was good, but now you can be less Sober and just clip it up.
[Hide Photo] Starting the route at the first bolt.
Bear Creek, CO
Bear Creek, CO
This line was bolted after Whole Lotta Sober and is yet to be named. I have the FA on both lines, and have not thought of a name yet. Tod's son did the SA. It's definitely 5.7 and sports a giant "surprise" under the lower overhang. I'm leaning towards "Too much nooky, not enough sleep".
cheers.
-chris Apr 21, 2011
Colorado
Golden, CO
Seemed to be on the easier side of 5.8 - though I would buy 5.7 if "Baton" is truly 5.7. Oct 11, 2021