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Routes in Diagonals Wall

01) Hot German Babe S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
02) Nick The Wonder Dog S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
02.5) Bolts Over Troubled Water S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
03) Ramp Of Death T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
04) Barron Von Mischke S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
05) Bolt Bolt Boltin on Heaven's Door. S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
05.5) Bolters on the Storm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
06) FBBMEAJMFFAMEUFA T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
06.5) Kletterfreude S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
07) Dirty bolts and their done dirt cheap S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
08) Supercalifragalisticexpi-BOLT-adocious S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
09) Boltway to Heaven S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
10) Cavedago - Gateway To Spormaggiorre T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
11) Packen Wir Es An!!!! S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
11.5 Purple Bolt, Purple Bolt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
12) Quantum Chaos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
13) Quantum Order T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Sport, TR, 1 ft, Grade III
FA: FA Project by Joe Mueller
Page Views: 723 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dreez on Oct 11, 2010
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Same start as Ramp of Death but finish straight up. The cool crux is at the last 15 feet. Work the drill holes to the right of the bolts. There are lips on them that you lie back. If you can get your foot in the little slot in the drill hole and then big throw to ledge on left left of bolt. You can also go up left on ledges but the lie back is way too cool. Finish on tiny ledges to the right of the anchor.

Mostly 5.8 moves until the top panel. You can escape right if you can't do it.

Try to avoid the inscription on the wall from 1915. It is historical value.

Named after Joe's latest crag dog in training.

Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Location

Route #4 on left side of Diagonals in the pit starts same as Ramp of Death.

Protection

7 bolts

Equipped by Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller

Photos

Fun route, not too wet or slimy even after some rain.

As of 6/7/13 I have a concern about the asymmetrical anchoring.

The left side bolt has the typical chains and rap ring; the right side bolt features a ring sans chains. As a result the anchor seemed to produce quite a bit of friction, and some questions about load distribution.

Many thanks to Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller for their investments into this area, my family and I love climbing here. Jun 8, 2013

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