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Routes in Diagonals Wall

01) Hot German Babe S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
02) Nick The Wonder Dog S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
02.5) Bolts Over Troubled Water S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
03) Ramp Of Death T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
04) Barron Von Mischke S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
05) Bolt Bolt Boltin on Heaven's Door. S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
05.5) Bolters on the Storm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
06) FBBMEAJMFFAMEUFA T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
06.5) Kletterfreude S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
07) Dirty bolts and their done dirt cheap S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
08) Supercalifragalisticexpi-BOLT-adocious S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
09) Boltway to Heaven S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
10) Cavedago - Gateway To Spormaggiorre T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
11) Packen Wir Es An!!!! S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
11.5 Purple Bolt, Purple Bolt S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
12) Quantum Chaos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
13) Quantum Order T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft, Grade II
FA: FA Project by Joe Mueller
Page Views: 1,025 total, 12/month
Shared By: Dreez on Oct 11, 2010
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Work the first set of 3 drill holes on left side of diagonals wall. Pretty hard to link moves together. One move 5.11/12 move depending on height, then a couple 5.11's and the rest is easy.

UPDATE: 10/22/15: Crux hold broke off this year. Not sure what the rating is but probably in 12 range. I added bolt to crux.

Named after Joe's awesome German Shephard crag dog. Calm, didn't bug other climbers, didn't bark, didn't eat other people's food, didn't bark at other dogs, didn't hunt and kill wildlife. Joe could just look at him and Nick would just know what to do, like move to avoid a falling rope. That dog read a climbers mind. Miss him.

Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Location

Route #2 on left side of Diagonals wall

Protection

5 bolts

Equipped by Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller

Photos

LeoSpaceman  
 
Dreez, awesome job with the bolting here an on Sax Partners. Both are comfortable cruxes now.

Not sure where the hold broke off but it definitely feels harder than 11b, at least to OS. Maybe 11c or so? May 1, 2016
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
Oh man, sorry. I will try and put another bolt in here and on Multiple Sax Partners. Thanks for info Jul 22, 2014
jack powers
St. Paul, Mn
jack powers   St. Paul, Mn
Fell off this thing today before clipping the second bolt and bruised my foot pretty bad on a mini-ledge below. Now I'm thinking that working this one on toprope first might be a good idea for those of us who are unlikely to onsight at the grade. Jul 12, 2014