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Routes in Diagonals Wall

01) Hot German Babe S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
02) Nick The Wonder Dog S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
02.5) Bolts Over Troubled Water S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
03) Ramp Of Death T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
04) Barron Von Mischke S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
05) Bolt Bolt Boltin on Heaven's Door. S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
05.5) Bolters on the Storm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
06) FBBMEAJMFFAMEUFA T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
06.5) Kletterfreude S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
07) Dirty bolts and their done dirt cheap S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
08) Supercalifragalisticexpi-BOLT-adocious S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
09) Boltway to Heaven S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
10) Cavedago - Gateway To Spormaggiorre T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
11) Packen Wir Es An!!!! S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
11.5 Purple Bolt, Purple Bolt S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
12) Quantum Chaos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
13) Quantum Order T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft, Grade II
FA: FA Michael Endrizzi FFA Michael Endrizzi
Page Views: 239 total · 3/month
Shared By: Dreez on Oct 11, 2010
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

"Follow arete on left side of Diagonals Wall. Tricky but easy 5.8 with one move 5.10. Learn how to mantle, think left palm. Start on Diagonals Wall and lieback right on the flake on the drill holes.
WARNING: Do not start climb around corner to left next to tree. This is loose death block and your could bring down multiple blocks. We marked it with X's"

Named for my hot german girlfriend Gaby

Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Location

#1 route on left edge/arete of Diagonals Wall

Protection

5 bolts

Equipped by Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller

Photos

Eldon Krosch Jr.
  5.10a
Eldon Krosch Jr.  
  5.10a
A great 5.10a route First bolt is blown out however so we pre-clipped the first bolt on the route to the right of this one by standing on a really solid ledge and a great handhold to the right of the actual route so there was some protection before the second clip. It worked out fine without any serious extra rope drag but you might want to want the since it goes around a semi sharp spot that can be avoided if you use a longer quick draw (which we did with an Alpine Draw on the second attempt) on the first clip.

Beta on climbing the route. Don't read if you want to discover it for yourself




A fairly strait forward and simple route and the crux is at the end. The final sequence included a solid heel hook to top out at the rings. I think its a great sport lead for an aspiring 5.10 sport leader. Jun 21, 2013