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Routes in Cracked Boulder

Le Fissure King V3 6A
Mutants Amok V5 6C
She Made Me Do It V8 7B
So I Did It V9 7C
Verisimilitude V10 7C+
Type: Boulder
FA: Andy Patterson???
Page Views: 139 total, 2/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

If you thought the moves on She Made Me Do It were great, try doing them in reverse! While possibly gimmicky (I mean, where else do you get to do a dyno with your feet), this problem touts some cruxes that are every bit as vicious as She Made Me Do It, —if not more so. In case you're wondering, no, you don't reverse the moves from the top of Mutants Amok. Simply start from the beginning jug of Mutants Amok, then move left, eventually finishing on Le Fissure King.

Location

Begins on the starting hold of Mutants Amok, on the far right of The Cracked Boulder.

Protection

Pads for sure.

Photos

- No Photos -
Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
  V9
Duke Lettieri   Santa Barbara, CA
  V9
youtu.be/i5AMCs_kDCk Sep 5, 2016
Chris Broomell
Valley Center, California
Chris Broomell   Valley Center, California
Glad to you see you send it! Dec 3, 2014
Damn. Was expecting you to finish up on Undertaker.

edit note: (dumb guy got the problem name wrong) Jul 27, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Sorry to add another silly video, but this is how bored we got with local rock this summer:

youtube.com/watch?v=tpjp_ul…

Hey, at least it's good training. I shouldn't dignify it with a name or grade, but it probably goes at V9/10, merely because of the pump factor. For ease of reference, I call it "So I Did It Again". Not creative, I know.

If you work a lot and can't travel to other climbing areas, this is what happens. Jul 26, 2012
ah yes, that's pretty - nice work ... although you have to go all the way across to the arete down low .... :) Oct 2, 2011
Hi Andy -

Killer send - so, it was 11 years ago that Rick Fredland did the FA of She Made Me Do It - we were duking it out for the FA but he had the angst (and more importantly the crank) in his favor (the 'she' in 'she made me do it' knows what she did to make the angst). Many months later I snagged the second ascent. (I can still close my eyes and run the entire beta, including the toe hook on Mutants and the leaves on the ledges above) In our exhilaration over knocking off SMMDI, we were obviously morons in that we didn't once think about going the other way .... I'm not aware that anyone else has.

The moves on that stretch of rock are sublime - the texture amazing - I always found it to be acutely sensitive to temperature and humidity - the best was cold and dry (as with just about all stone). I'll ask Rick tomorrow if he knows of anyone doing 'So I Did It' but I think you're solid there. Unfortunately, you have raised some angst in me and I have no doubt in Rick. Time to drag our sorry, out of shape asses to Skofield to see 'What You Did'.

Now to watch your video -
Tom Painter Oct 2, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Here's a video:
youtube.com/watch?v=6zcXZvQ… Jun 28, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
I just revisited this problem after a long hiatus from Skofield Park. The movement and the rock still surprises me with its subtlety, power, and friction. Since it was the end of a fairly hot day, the slopers felt grimy. I had to earn every inch.

Awesome problem.

Now will somebody else do it and comment on the grade/quality? Jun 28, 2011
drunkenmaster
santa rosa, cali
drunkenmaster   santa rosa, cali
great job andy! i say claim it but just put the ? after the fa. maybe in 8 or 10 years drop the ?. i have to do the same around here in the bay area all the time. i actually thought of that problem when i was there on a short trip a few years ago working on the V8. it is pretty obvious but it did seem harder. i bet someone would have mentioned it if they did it but maybe wills young (bishop bouldering) or steve edwards would be good guys to ask?? either way i look forward to trying it again on my next trip.. Dec 5, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
I've asked around a bit, and I can't prove beyond the shadow of a doubt that I did this problem first. No one seems to know much anything about it, either because no one cared to dream up the idea in the first place, or because they kept it to themselves if they did. I'm going out on a bit of a limb here, and if anyone has conflicting information, I'm happy to be wrong.

Kudos to Chris Broomell for first telling me the idea of So I Did It. Oct 11, 2010